Dishwasher leaves water on dishes...will not dry.

[retseih]

Appliance Junkies....

I am hoping for some help on where to go next.  Excellent site by the way.  

I have an LG LDF6810ST dishwasher and have had a bit of trouble.  While under warranty the sump pump failed and was replaced.  The technician ended up creating a leak that I had to fix myself when he came back and stated...."you will get a few drips under the door."  But that is water under the bridge.

The problem I am having now is that there is water left on the dishes after the dishwasher is done.  I do not have any error codes when a cycle is complete.  I read the manual posted on this site and tryed cycling through the test mode.  The display on the LED does not match all of the different steps.  After figuring out to enter test mode you press rinse+delay start+power s/w simultaneously (a feat Jimmi Hendrix would struggle with) then delay start I get the following:

3H/U3 (instead of U2 as in the manual)

next I get 1 followed by 49

32 33 "0" 0 (first digit flashing) 35 36 37 38 19 3A ding ding ding

I have a PCB  left when the service tech worked on it the first time that I could try.  I have looked at the wiring and found one gray wire that has stripped insulation, but looks to still be in tact.  I have not yet tested the voltage on the fan to see if the humidity sensor might be bad.  I suspect that either the fan or switch is bad.  I am also suspicious about the element, because when running the sanitary cycle I would expect the dishes to be HOT not just warm.  Am I on the right path?

[JWWebster]

While our tech's ponder your predictament you might want to read an earlier post:
LG LE error

[john63]

Please post your serial number.
This will allow for accurate assistance/information.

[retseih]

Thanks for the quick reply.  I read through the Christmas post and didn't see too much that applies here.  But I will keep tinkering I'm going to ohm out the element and fans first ... meanwhile the s/n is 701KWBY00557 Thanks again so much for your help.

Dick

[retseih]

okay...that was too easy.  I measured the element and it is showing an open.  Based on the wiring diagram it looks like it could be the heater s/w, however, I am not too hopeful based on other comments on this site.  I will rip the thing apart (guts and feathers) and retest element when I get to that point.  It's looking like $135 + shipping for the whole sump assembly....

[john63]

The following will be needed to perform diagnostics:

VOLT/OHM METER

WIRE REPAIR TOOL & WIRE SPLICER(S)

ELECTRICAL TAPE

CARDBOARD

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

CLOTH BLANKET OR LARGE CARDBOARD SHEET

******
COMPLAINT: No Heat

This usually produces an "HE" error (Heating Error)
If the d/w has NO heat in the tub after a cycle has ended--this is indeed a problem.
Most consumers indicate that the dishes haven't dried at the end of the cycle but everything in the d/w is hot or warm to the touch. In this case--it is NOT a component failure but another issue.
Assuming that there's NO heat--let's check (4) possibilities:

1) BROKEN WIRE

    Disconnect the power to the dishwasher at the *home* circuit
    breaker.
    To protect the floor--place a cloth blanket or cardboard sheet
    in front of the dishwasher.
    Open the door and remove all of the "phillips" screws on the
    stainless side of the door to remove the front panel.
    Inspect the wire loom running from the bottom of the door to the
    detergent dispenser housing. Most--if not all--*6810* model
    dishwashers have the tar-like insulation material sprayed onto
    the door and sides of the stainless steel tub. This acts as a
    thermal blanket to keep heat in the d/w as well as a sound
    deadener.
    If any of the wires have been pulled apart from becoming
    embedded into the tar-coat--repair the wire(s).
    Wrap the entire wire loom from the bottom of the door up to
    the dispenser box with electrical tape. Cut a small section of
    cardboard & place it between the wire loom & the tar coating.
    If this needed to be done--re-install the front panel & restore
    power to the d/w and run a test cycle. Most likely--it's repaired.
    If not--keep the power to the d/w "off"...
    

2) FAILED MAIN BOARD

    In order to test the *Main Board* it'll be necessary to close  
    door & test for power output. It's best to have an extra latch
    that is located on the d/w tub at the 12 O'clock position. Part
    number 4026DD3001A. Otherwise--you'll need three hands to
    hold the main board and the volt/ohm meter.
    Insert the test meter leads *into* the Main Board plug marked:
    "RD3"
    This is the big red plug on the upper/right corner.
    Restore power to the d/w.
    Press & hold the following (3) buttons at the top of the d/w
    control panel:

    RINSE/TIME DELAY/POWER

    This activates the *test mode*.
    Press the TIME DELAY button (6) times.
    In the display--the number "36" should be visible.
    This activates power to the heater for (10) seconds.
    The test meter should show 110 or 120 volts for ten seconds.
    If not--the Main Board has failed (relay on the board).
    Depending on the SERIAL NUMBER of the d/w--it may be part
    number: 6871DD1006H. It should be double-checked though.
    If the board tests good...

3) FAILED HEATING ELEMENT

    Disconnect power to the d/w.
    Remove the RED plug from the Main Board (RD3) and perform a
    *continuity test* of the Heating Element by placing the test
    meter leads into the red plug.
    If the heating element does not show continuity--it has failed.
    I STRONGLY recommend replacing the *entire* Sump Assembly*
    part number: AJH31248604.
    This requires removing the d/w from under the counter & placing
    the d/w on it's back.
    Again, most--if not all of the *6810* model dishwashers had a
    version of the Sump Assembly which had a very high problability
    of a failing wash motor (Poor wash results or "LE" error).
    If the heating element tested good...

4) FAILED DOOR LATCH SWITCH

    Turn off the power to the d/w and using an ohmmeter--test
    the left-side door switch for proper function.
    
    DOOR CLOSED: Continuity.
    DOOR OPENED: No continuity.


If the heating element shows *no continuity*--it has failed. This is available as a separate part # 5303DD1001A

If the sump assembly was replaced previously BEFORE May 2008...
I advise replacing the sump assembly with the updated part #
AJH31248604.

This sump assembly is currently in use and was introduced to resolve numerous complaints of "LE" errors and\or poor wash results.

Your serial number shows:

7          Year of manufacture
01         Month
K          Country of origin (Korea)
WBY      Factory ID
00557    557th LDF6810 built in January


If the water leak was from the inside-the-door duct at the blower fan housing...
Seal the connection with silicone sealant (if you or the servicer have not done so).

Always use RINSE AID in the dispenser. This tremendously improves drying by not allowing water droplets to *cling* to surfaces inside the dishwasher.
LG dishwashers do *not* use the heating element during the DRY CYCLE--using *rinse aid* reduces the amount of moisture remaining inside the tub after the final drain cycle.

[wog]

Very nice write up!!! Thanks.    I was able to determine that my March 2008 LDF6810ST dishwasher has a defective heater element. 

Question:  Should I replace just the element ($50),  or the entire sump assembly ($150)?

[john63]

Replace the entire SUMP ASSY.

[domain]

 

Replace the entire SUMP ASSY.