Maytag Ensignia Washer Loud Squeak at the end of spin

[Jaytag]

Neighbor has a washer that has a loud sound at the end of the spin cycle or if you shut off during spin cycle.  Is this the brake? 

Model MAV4757AWW

[JWWebster]

This is your washer's brake rotor, part # 35-6714
It has a brake lining on it. When that lining gets thin it begins metal to metal contact. You would need to remove the main pulley and brake cover to replace this part. A special tool is needed to do so.

[Jaytag]

Thank you I thought that was the case.  Question.  The washer was mfg in August of 2005 so it is not even 5 yrs old yet.  I know the manual says 1 yr warranty.  Is the brake considered part of the transmission and does it carry any type of longer limited warranty?

Also how bad is it to operate in this condition?

[JWWebster]

I don't think the brake is covered. Lubricate that area and the noise will go away.

[schaffersapplian]

The brake is not covered under the transmission warranty, nor does it have any kind of warranty out of the 1 year from the original date of purchase.  Now, in regards to the squeak and repair.  The purpose of the brake is to hold the tub during agitate. If it wears out to the point of not holding at all, the tub will turn freely in agitate giving you less then adequate wash performance.  That brake could work fine for 10 days from now or 10 years from now, and only have to put up with the squeak. There is no problem running it that way at all, it will not affect the operation of the machine until it doesn't hold anymore.  That is a dry brake, which means you can not "lube" it at all to make the noise go away, That will make the brake not work at all.  Its a relatively easy repair, but as JW said, you would need to buy a special tool to remove the brake since it is under 200 pounds of pressure.  DO NOT REMOVE ANY SCREWS UNLESS YOU HAVE THAT TOOL AND KNOW HOW TO USE IT!!!  You will loose your eye! Hope some of this helps at least a little.

[AJ]

Your service manual.

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16026502.pdf

The tool.

12002012 Maytag Bearing & Seal Tool/Brake Tool

 

[magician59]

There is a way to accomplish this without the brake tool. It takes longer, but may be worth your while. The screws that hold the stator in place are about a half-inch long. The thread is 8-32. Remove three of them in an alternating pattern (remove one, leave the next, remove the next, etc) and replace them with longer screws(about 1" long). Slowly back out the short ones. Now, carefully back out the longer screws, trying to keep the process as equal as possible, until the spring pressure is neutralized. Reinstallation is reverse. NOTE: Although this may sound simple, it is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, and is only intended to serve as a plausible method. The spring pressure is, as stated before, 200PSI.

[JWWebster]

A little bit of oil gonna stop that brake from working with that 200 pound killer spring in there? LOL

[Repair-man]

There's nothing physically wrong with the brake other than a nice shiny glaze on the stator. Our solution is to drop the  stator and use Emery cloth to sand down the shine on the inside of the stator. (That's all the noise is, friction on a shiny surface, like rubbing a wet finger around the rim of a wine glass.)

Taking off the stator without the brake tool is NOT advised as magician suggested.  There is nothing wrong with the brake...so if you were to leave it as is, it will not  harm anything (except eardrums)