No hot water

[Enter Model or Part Number]

Enter Model or Part Number

Enter Model Number

[Graham W]

I have an LDF6819WW making no hot water as well.  Downloaded the service manual from this site (many thanks) but it isn't obvious where to test the input voltage and heater resistance?  I assume that I'll need to be able to run the machine to test the voltage.  Do I need to pull it out to get at this or can I test from the front with the kick plate removed?  

I must say I am pretty disappointed with the machine... less than 3 years old and it probably needs a new element.

[Graham W]

it isn't obvious where to test the input voltage and heater resistance?

after another look, p.28 in the 'full disassembly' section makes it clear where the heating element is.  What is the easiest way to get at it?

[JWWebster]

You gotta get the top off and then  the front off.

[Graham W]

You gotta get the top off and then  the front off.

Thanks for the reply but I am not sure I follow you.  By top, I assume you mean the sides and felt need to be removed (p. 21).  What do you mean by the 'front', the door or the lower kick panel?  The heater is in the sump so I assume that to check the supply voltage I need to attach some clips, tip the machine upright and actually start a wash cycle?

[AJ]

You gotta get the top off and then  the front off.

This is a dishwasher not a front load washer, correct?

I'm having trouble finding information on this model.

[JWWebster]

Oh the dishwasher heater is mounted with the motor and pump all in one assembly that drops down into the tub and is held into place with a couple of plastic ears and some screws. You gotta lay it on its side and take a bunch of hoses and harness connections  It is a chore.

LG dishwasher manual

[john63]

I have an LDF6819WW making no hot water as well.  Downloaded the service manual from this site (many thanks) but it isn't obvious where to test the input voltage and heater resistance?  I assume that I'll need to be able to run the machine to test the voltage.  Do I need to pull it out to get at this or can I test from the front with the kick plate removed?  

I must say I am pretty disappointed with the machine... less than 3 years old and it probably needs a new element.

This model number is most likely: LDF6810WW

An LG dishwasher/front is white/display panel is at the top of the door.

The following will be needed to perform diagnostics:

VOLT/OHM METER

WIRE REPAIR TOOL & WIRE SPLICER(S)

ELECTRICAL TAPE

CARDBOARD

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

CLOTH BLANKET OR LARGE CARDBOARD SHEET

******
COMPLAINT: No Heat

This usually produces an "HE" error (Heating Error)
If the d/w has NO heat in the tub after a cycle has ended--this is indeed a problem.
Most consumers indicate that the dishes haven't dried at the end of the cycle but everything in the d/w is hot or warm to the touch. In this case--it is NOT a component failure but another issue.
Assuming that there's NO heat--let's check (4) possibilities:

1) Broken wire.
    Disconnect the power to the dishwasher at the *home* circuit
    breaker.
    To protect the floor--place a cloth blanket or cardboard sheet
    in front of the dishwasher.
    Open the door and remove all of the "phillips" screws on the
    stainless side of the door to remove the front panel.
    Inspect the wire loom running from the bottom of the door to the
    detergent dispenser housing. Most--if not all--*6810* model
    dishwashers have the tar-like insulation material sprayed onto
    the door and sides of the stainless steel tub. This acts as a
    thermal blanket to keep heat in the d/w as well as a sound
    deadener.
    If any of the wires have been pulled apart from becoming
    embedded into the tar-coat--repair the wire(s).
    Wrap the entire wire loom from the bottom of the door up to
    the dispenser box with electrical tape. Cut a small section of
    cardboard & place it between the wire loom & the tar coating.
    If this needed to be done--re-install the front panel & restore
    power to the d/w and run a test cycle. Most likely--it's repaired.
    If not--keep the power to the d/w "off"...
   

2) FAILED MAIN BOARD

    In order to test the *Main Board* it'll be necessary to close 
    door & test for power output. It's best to have an extra latch
    that is located on the d/w tub at the 12 O'clock position. Part
    number 4026DD3001A. Otherwise--you'll need three hands to
    hold the main board and the volt/ohm meter.
    Insert the test meter leads *into* the Main Board plug marked:
    "RD3"
    This is the big red plug on the upper/right corner.
    Restore power to the d/w.
    Press & hold the following (3) buttons at the top of the d/w
    control panel:

    RINSE/TIME DELAY/POWER

    This activates the *test mode*.
    Press the TIME DELAY button (6) times.
    In the display--the number "36" should be visible.
    This activates power to the heater for (10) seconds.
    The test meter should show 110 or 120 volts for ten seconds.
    If not--the Main Board has failed (relay on the board).
    Depending on the SERIAL NUMBER of the d/w--it may be part
    number: 6871DD1006H. It should be double-checked though.
    If the board tests good...

3) FAILED HEATING ELEMENT

    Disconnect power to the d/w.
    Remove the RED plug from the Main Board (RD3) and perform a
    *continuity test* of the Heating Element by placing the test
    meter leads into the red plug.
    If the heating element does not show continuity--it has failed.
    I STRONGLY recommend replacing the *entire* Sump Assembly*
    part number: AJH31248604.
    This requires removing the d/w from under the counter & placing
    the d/w on it's back.
    Again, most--if not all of the *6810* model dishwashers had a
    version of the Sump Assembly which had a very high problability
    of a failing wash motor (Poor wash results or "LE" error).
    If the heating element tested good...

4) FAILED DOOR LATCH SWITCH

    Turn off the power to the d/w and using an ohmmeter--test
    the left-side door switch for proper function.
   
    DOOR CLOSED: Continuity.
    DOOR OPENED: No continuity.

Good luck.
 
   
   
   
   
   

[JWWebster]

Johnny63 is da man 

[john63]

Thank you JW.

I try to add some depth to the posts---a little bit of context that explains more about:
How
Why
When
Where

Thanks again, John

[Graham W]

Thanks everyone.  The machine looks like this one:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/pA5mfRAMGvo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/pA5mfRAMGvo</a>

and (unrelated to the heater issue) occasionally sounds like this:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/B0V1HiOUhWI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/B0V1HiOUhWI</a>

The original receipt lists the model # with the 8 instead of a 0 but who knows.  When I went to the dealer to inquire about any just out of warranty service he offered to give me a discount on a new one rather than ordering the parts .  I reminded him it is less than 3 years old and he just shrugged.  The parts prices he listed were 50% more than what I've found online.  He may be the only retailer in town with 25+ years in the business but the likelihood of me purchasing from him again (or even speaking politely about him in good company) is slim.

[Mr. Fix-It]

Another happy LG customer!!!

[bsfixit]

I had an "LE" code off and on.. usually restarting it did the trick... soon that did not work anymore.. I took off the front panel and after poking around the harness .. there it was a broken white wire.  and a nearly broken ground wire
(green white stripe) going to a screw and the bottom right corner of the Dishwasher door frame.   So far so good.. 

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