Growling Washer

[John M-Easton]

My washer started making a growling noise and didn't get all the water out. After determining it wasn't my stomach, I took the back off and ran it. I heard the growl, then removed the belt and ran it again. The motor seems to be complaining a bit. Could there be anything other than the motor to do this? I'm pretty sure I have it nailed, but you can never tell.

Model mah4000aww

[JWWebster]

Does the pump turn easy? Sometimes the bearing in those will start to seperate and lock up. And it won't leak!

[Repair-man]

On this Neptune machine, if the belt is removed, spin the large drive pulley by hand or spin the basket from the front and listen for a rasping noise as it turns. Most likely you have bad tub bearings and should consider replacing the machine. No doubt there are ways to repair  these, but they are mostly cost-prohibitive.

On the other hand, if something got into the small electric pump inside the back panel, it could account for the noise, and is a simple and easy fix. The motor should not be run with the belt off, FYI.

You say you think you got it nailed, huh? What is your next course of action?

[John M-Easton]

The tub turns easy with no sound or resistance. I ran the motor for a couple seconds and it growls as soon as I turn it on. The pump drains and to tell you the truth my next course was to take a sawzall to my MAYTAG Manual.

[John M-Easton]

Assumption being the Mother of all screw-ups, I checked the main control board and it is fine. No burned resistors or otherwise. I replaced this once already.

[John M-Easton]

Looking at some old posts here and other places, it looks like it comes down to the motor conversion kit.

[Repair-man]

I agree ....try the 12002039 kit and see if the noise disappears.


Part # 12002039 Motor - Drve, AP4010145

[John M-Easton]

Thanks for the help. this site has helped more than others I've been to in the past.

[schaffersapplian]

Just an FYI.  Your washer has a 10 year Warranty on that CONVERSION KIT.  Check your owners manual and your purchase date.  If you bought it on or after this date in year 2000, you may get away with a cheaper bill calling a local maytag servicer to change that part out for ya. 

[John M-Easton]

OK I will. Thanks for the information.

[Repair-man]

Here's an FYI on top of your FYI 

The 10 year Maytag warranty is for the motor only, not the kit. It does not cover the blown motor control board, technically. Getting a third party, like A&E Service for example, only increases the likelihood of further charges. The kit comes with easy to understand instructions that any mechanically inclined person should be able to follow.

John, if you have not replaced the belt before, do that as well, p/n 12001788  to avoid problems later.


Part # 12001788 Kit, Belt & Isolator, AP4009041

[John M-Easton]

Thanks. I've been playing with these "household toys" for a while. I just haven't done any front loaders. I'm a master electrician and work on motor controllers, turbines and power plants. A lot of background and tired of "new" toys breaking down.

[schaffersapplian]

Another FYI, On your FYI, Towards my FYI!     Call around local appliance dealers, if it is in warranty, ask them how much their service call is and labor, or how much it would cost to change out the part.  There is a good chance it is still cheaper then buying the parts.  The repair by most any tech should only take 20 - 25 minutes if not in a cramped room.  Saving 20-40 bucks is still saving 20-40 bucks.

[schaffersapplian]

The conversion kit may only be covered if the board can be proved to have taken out the motor.

[John M-Easton]

Thank you for all the help.