Whirlpool Electric Dryer troubleshooting help please

[Rallyn8664]

motor does not turn with belt off, dryer door switch closed and push to start button pressed

However, you can feel vibration at the start switch.
The motor itself turns freely by hand, the connections look fine.  Should I be checking the motor and centifrugal switch next?
I have the home study manual from the service matters site and it gives a procedure for checking both, is this the next step?

[jumptrout51]

The vibration in the start switch is from the coil energizing inside the switch.
 Jump out the wires on the thermal fuse on the rear of the dryer exhaust vent. Do not let them touch anything. Try your start switch again.
Also you might press and hold the start switch to see if it starts.
Let us know what these 2 suggestions do for you.

[Rallyn8664]

I tried the thermal fuse suggestion, nothing.   Son showed up to unplug dryer for me (I have problems with my hands makes that plug hard to grasp) told him it didn't work, let me try it again, turned the timer again, open and shut door, pressed start and  VIOLA!  


Now I must ask you masters of repair..what does it all mean? 

[jumptrout51]

You forgot to plug it in.

[jumptrout51]

Just kidding.
You may want to turn off the breaker,remove the cover to the wall outlet and inspect for loose terminals in the wall outlet.
Some dryer cords allow you to spread the spade ends slightly for a tighter fit.

[JWWebster]

It woiks? Must not have been a good connection but all is well now. I say let it do its thang.

[Rallyn8664]

I'm back.  The only time it worked was when the the wires to the thermal fuse were jumpered.  When hooked up properly, it doesn't start. 
Audible continuity test says thermal fuse is good(plus it was a brand new never opened one I bought last year as a backup).
As mentioned earlier, all thermostats, element, test good.
Voltage from outlet is right on both sides.
Voltage at terminal block is correct.
I have checked every connection to all components on the back and none are loose.  All the connections to terminals on the centrifrugal switch are also firm. 
Terminal 4 is loose in the switch (yes, the one that goes to the thermal fuse).
I followed directions in the WP manual for testing the motor(which we know works) and obviously it checked out.  I didn't really understand the directions about checking the cent. switch so I guess I'm stuck.  Will throw the breaker and check out outlet connections tomorrow.  Did I mention that electricity scares the hell out me? 
If it turns out to be the cent. switch that part costs about $75 plus I need a rear drum seal (approx.$30) and a blower wheel (15) I already paid $20 for a belt locally and have a few backup parts from previous repairs. 
Is it time to cut my losses here and go buy some cheaply made new machine that won't last half as long as this one?

Advice anyone?  and thanks again ya'll.  I never would have made it this far without your help.

[jumptrout51]

The centrifugal switch only engages while the motor is running and sends power to the heater.

The thermal fuse must be bad if it works jumped and not through the fuse.

[Rallyn8664]

Hey guys, hoping you'd give this another look because I really don't think it's that thermal fuse.  I've tried my best to educate myself and I obtained a NON autoranging meter.  I think I've done everthing that has been advised here so far.  I also diagramed all of my connections in case somehow I connected something wrong.  I also turned off the breaker and took off the switch cover and examined that wiring-it was very secure nothing looked burnt.  Re-checked the dryer cord and terminals-all as it should be.
Instead of typing all of this, I scanned the two papers with my chicken scratch, if you can't read something please let me know. 
I know I must be crazy, stupid, or stubborn (probably all three) but I just HATE the idea of getting my butt kicked by an old dryer!!!
Thanks in advance to anyone who's willing to take another look at this. 
To any other night owls, I'm staying up again in hopes of catching the Shuttle (I'm in central FL) so I'll check back.

I suspect that JW's either still DANCING or having happy dreams of the beloved Saints

[JWWebster]

If all them things check out and have continuity and you have power to the dryer then your timer must be bad, part # 3397273

[kellonnie]

if it works with thermal fuse jumpered, it must be bad, part # 3392519

[Rallyn8664]

I should have clarified-it only worked with the thermal fuse jumpered one time. I re-tried the jumper trick and still no power. 
If I knew for sure which terminals on the timer to check for what and what readings to expect, or something else to do/check to figure out exactly what is wrong,  I'm willing to run any test and and post back. I would very much like to get to the bottom of it even if I don't keep her.
Thanks again for all the help so far.   
Since the last post, I bought a used Kenmore off Craigs list. I must send out a signal that I'm a trusting fool- see new topic: "Shady Kenmore dryer purchase" because I'm at a loss here on what to do. 

[JWWebster]

If all of the components in the dryer have continuity AND you have power to the machine the timer is BAD.

[Rallyn8664]

JW, thanks.  So- the timer can still advance through the various cycles but be dead?
Did I kill it by something I did? An unlucky coincidence? (this whole thing started with no heat, burned wire, then no power after wire repaired. The timer is about the only part of that dryer I didn't touch.   Just trying to understand how it all works.