I'm hoping someone here will take pity on my soul and please point me in the right direction...
I am a 40something year old woman with a fair background of mechanical repair, have successfully repaired all of my other whirlpool appliances including this one (thanks to my husbands 22 yrs in the navy
. Have built and repaired computers for several years. I have very little electronics background knowledge but extremely willing to learn. I don't have anyone nearby with electrical background to help me with this, 3 kids, husband is employed out of state and he has less experience with appliance repair. I can't afford a new dryer unless I have no other option. Problem:
Dryer quit producing heat but all else worked. No heat for any cycle. Breaker and power at wall good. Pulled back off, found burnt wire from element to motor (L1 I think) Note that the burnt wire was from a former repair that included a wire w/terminal and wire nut.
I checked surrounding components for visible signs of damage, checked venting to outside (very clean) and inside dryer (not too bad except in the areas I'd never accessed previously specifically, motor area).
White wire that goes to motor was also burned, couldn't tell how extensive the damage. I cut it and repaired. Had a backup wire terminal from some former dryer repair, cut the red wire to the burnt section, and repaired that.
After reading many appliance forums, I came to the conclusion the cause of the burned wire was not necessarily too much lint but almost completely disintegrated seals on the lint chute and possibly a loose connection. Further inspection revealed the rear drum seal, belt, and blower wheel should also be replaced. Vacuumed and blew out as much of stuff in there as I could. I didn't test any of the terminals on the motor but all appeared to be intact, not burned. There wasn't a burnt smell near motor.
I have already replaced the lint chute seals, and belt. I put it all back together and now it doesn't spin at all. Timer advances, belt is installed correctly, rear seal although worn is functional. When I push the “push to start” button, I can feel it vibrate? I'm certain I would have noticed this if it were always this way. I immediately unplugged it and am now here asking for help. I sincerely hope I haven't done something to make matters worse!
I plan on ordering parts when I'm clear what is needed. I'm hoping to just get her up and running again ASAP (we're running out of clothes and I really hate the laundry mat).
This is where I need the help, I checked all the components with a Radio Shack 29 range multimeter but am unclear on how to interpret the results. The tiny manual wasn't much help to someone who doesn't already know about electricity. I know that I'm supposed to use the Rx1 setting, but I can't find a reference to that in the manual. I put the meter on the ohms setting and used “auto” for all readings
Heater Element: 10.1 –10.2 ohms Audible continuity check: displays short and emits tone
Hi-Limit thermostat: 000.0 – 000.2 ohms,Audible continuity check: displays short and emits tone
Thermal cut-off: 000.0 – 000.2 ohms,Audible continuity check: displays short and emits tone
Thermal fuse: 000.0 – 000.2 ohms, Audible continuity check: displays short and emits tone
*Cycling Thermostat: 000.0 – 000.1 ohms, Audible continuity check: displays short and emits tone
*wasn’t sure how to test this, I put probes across the two terminals that had the red wires and didn’t test the other two
** also wondering if my readings are moving because I’m not holding the probes on properly or long enough? Are all of my parts bad?!!!
*** the results for testing to see if the element was grounded always gave 0.F which in the ohms setting means over flow or value you are measuring exceeds range, range was on auto
I can supply photos, wiring diagram, whatever information is needed upon request. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me get this fixed.