Kenmore 70 series dryer issue

[dad4taylor]

it is gas

[dad4taylor]

OK, I ran the thing for 1/2 hour on low heat with nothing in it with no issues.  Then I switched to high heat and within ten minutes it cut out still with nothing in it.

[JWWebster]

When you say it cut out you mean the motor died right?

[dad4taylor]

Yes

[dad4taylor]

Would it help If I sent you a scan JPG file of the wiring diagram?  It is too big to attach here.

[dad4taylor]

Sorry, I give up guys.... heading out for new dryer

[JWWebster]

Since you think you might have it wired wrong how about posting some pictures of the problem? Maybe we tell by looking at that.

[dad4taylor]

Seems to me that a miswired motor would not work for 4 months...

I already bought a new dryer.... not worth my time sweating the old one

As a contractor I participate in a few online forums giving people advice and solving their issues.  I'm always trying to answer their specific question.  On this forum I asked several times about a thermal device being able to cut the motor out... simple question for somebody who knows something about appliances but nobody here could answer that.  The purpose of this forum is to answer questions and sell parts.... in that regard this forum failed.

[jumptrout51]

The forum did not fail.
There are no external fuses,relays,switches etc. to the motor that would cause the motor not to run as you described.

[dad4taylor]

The appliance forum failed to answer a simple question about a popular appliance.  In addition the forum gave out incorrect information when it was stated that a blown thermal fuse would cause the motor not to turn. 

[JWWebster]

I was able to make 110.76722690 work. That dryer would not run if the skinny white fuse on the blower housing was blown but the limits on the element could blow and the dryer will still run. If the high limit(the small one on top of the heater) blows it is usually from a blocked vent.

This statement is wrong in regards to your dryer. If the skinny white fuse blows that dryer will still run, but the power to the gas assembly will be shut down until air restrictions and lint build up is physically removed and that fuse is replaced. None of this has anything to do with the issue of the motor overload shutting down after a few minutes. The only thing I can think of that may do it is this: Some 1996-1997 dryers use a different motor. If you think your dryer was made in one of those years please double check by using your model number.
Other than that I cannot imagine why the motor would shut down if the drum is turning normally and the air restrictions have been dealt with.

[Ned120]

Same question, is it gas or electric?  And when you replaced the motor, was that because the drum was not revolving or an attempt to get heat?  You and I are posting around the same time, have been reviewing your thread.   The advice given on my gas dryer is working out well.  The thermal fuse was blown and the cause seems to be the massive amount of stuff in the "box heater" ( vertical chamber running up the back of the dryer, secured by 4 screws on mine).  I can't get another fuse until tomorrow or whenever I can get off work in time to get to a shop.  I replaced the $48 ignitor but that was probably not the issue.  Bypassing the fuse proved that electricity was trying to get to the ignitor ( tested at the plug that connects to the ignitor) but I'd already installed the new ignitor so could not return it.