Kenmore 70 Series Electric dryer wont heat up

[kid_sketch]

inspected element but didnt see any sings of breaks/cracks.
I do have 240 across the 2 hot legs comming in to the machine. i also recived 240 cross the legs of the cutoff(while running) but not to the element or high limit.
element continuity still .010
high limit & cutoff both with no reading change (shows 1. on digital meter)
thermal fuse shows .000
operating therm(4 pole) one set shows .000 other set read no change (shows 1. on digital meter).

[kid_sketch]

do you still think it may be the element?

[AJ]

i also recived 240 cross the legs of the cutoff(while running) but not to the element

If you put one lead on each side of that cutoff and read 240 Volts then that cutoff is open (bad) like a fuse.

If the cutoff was closed (good) then you would be putting both leads of the meter on the same hot line and not get any voltage reading.

[kid_sketch]

ok sorry im not sure what i did earlier but i jus retested the cuttoff.. when i but the two lead to both poles i didnt recieve 240. it didnt read anything. i showed 120 with one lead on hot line and one to ground.

[JWWebster]

then that means you need to replace it or the element won't fire off

[JWWebster]

Note: they send both the limits for a reason. The lower one nearest the element terminals is set fer 250F the upper smaller one is set fer 300F. If the upper one fails then that means the lower one did not do it's job either.

[AJ]

Here are the steps I would take to check your dryer.

I know you have done some of these already.

1. Check for 240 volts were the dryer cord attaches to the dryer.

Some times people will check power at the outlet and it's ok, but later find out it was a burnt up connection were the power cord attaches to the dryer that was giving them the problem.

2. Check to see if you have 240 Volts to the heating element.

Put one probe on each terminal of the element to check. If you have power to the heating element, but it does not heat then replace the element.

3. If you don't have power to the heating element then I would check the thermo cut-off that is mounted up high on the left side of the heater canister.

Check the thermo cut-off with a ohm meter. If it ohms out it's good. If you get no ohm reading just as if you did not have the probes on the thermo cut-off then replace the thermo cut-off.

Make sure you have the power off and at least one wire pulled of the thermo cut-off when checking it with a ohm meter.

4. If the upper thermo cut-off is fine I would then check the second thermo cut-off that is located near the bottom of the heater on the left side.

If all the above items seem to check out ok then I would move on to checking the timer and the switch on the motor.

Sometimes you can check the timer just by looking at the back of it. There maybe a burnt wire or spade on the back of the timer.

The switch on the motor is a centrifugal switch and it kills the power to the heating element when the motor is not running and kicks in power to the heating element when the motor is running.

This way the heater will not operate if the motor blower is not running. It's a safety thing. If the contact are burnt up on that motor switch it maybe the reason why you have no power to the heating element.

[AJ]

ok sorry im not sure what i did earlier but i jus retested the cuttoff.. when i but the two lead to both poles i didnt recieve 240. it didnt read anything. i showed 120 with one lead on hot line and one to ground.

Testing it that way it sounds like it's good. The most common way to test them is with a ohm meter for continuity.