Kenmore 70 Series Electric dryer wont heat up

[kid_sketch]

I have the same dry and is not heating up. the coil has a yellow powder. looks like corrosion on a battery. was wondering if this may be an indicator thee coil is bad. I have seen many posts about this dryer/problem don't have a tester with me at the moment to check fuses and such.

Model 110.64722400

[schaffersapplian]

The "heat" circuit on a dryer is more then meets the eye.  The only way to test the machine is to have a multi-meter.... there are many components that make the machine heat... your ultimate goal is to have have 240 volts to the heating element.  The motor, timer, thermal fuse, heating element, thermal cut-off, and the hi limit thermostat could all be suspect without the right tool for the job.... There also could be an issue with the breaker and or wiring of the house, or dryer.... Any one of our serve tech's will be glad to walk you threw this repair, but to diagnoses the problem properly u must get a meter. 

[JWWebster]

I have seen powder on element and blowers, I thought it might be from fabric softener

[kid_sketch]

Thank you JW for at least trying to answer the question I asked unlike your counter part. The powder is awfully acidic I don't be believe its from fabric softener it is only on the coil it self not on any surrounding parts. So I'm going to assume that the powder is not an indication that the coil is bad if that is what you think it is from, for now at least. I just never seen such a strange build up like that before on any of my other appliances. As far as the proper tools go, I have them but thank you for rambling about things I didn't ask about  schaff  i always enjoy wasting my time.

[AJ]

Hi kid_sketch,

Please be sure to read, Posting Basics - Starting a New Topic

Note towards the bottom were it says,

# Please do not ask your own question in a topic.
In other words, please don't hijack the topic and make it yours.
Start your own topic and reference the other topic related to your issue.

I have split your post into a new topic and reference the other topic for you.

I have them but thank you for rambling about things I didn't ask about  schaff  i always enjoy wasting my time.

He is just trying to be helpful. All our technicians are volunteers, please try to show them a little respect.

Thanks for posting your questions.

[kid_sketch]

My apologizes to Schaff I was quiet rude, but the question I asked would have been better answered with a yes or no, and it seemed as thought the original poster had his problem resolved. I understand that electrical systems are imposable to diagnose with out equipment to test. That is why I posted not have the equipment with me at the time the post was made. Once again I am sorry I know you guys are doing this to help others with lesser experiance in appliance repair and that im sure it is not always easy to understand exactly what some one is trying to communicate via the board.

[niobrara]

If you don't have a meter handy , pull the element out and look at it to see if the wires are connected.Be carefull with it as the break may be on the holders.

[kid_sketch]

I now have my tester back in my possession. i checked the power coming in to the machine looks good 120/120. i then tested the high limit and cutoff each with a wire removed and it had a reading of 120v to one wire on each, with the unit running. The cutoff seemed to have power even while not running. switched my tester to check ohms. leads together reading 0. with machine running i showed a reading of 1.8 to 1.95 or so in both the cutoff and high limit. suggestions on where to go from here?

[JWWebster]

Disconnect power and do some continuity readings. Check the element continuity, what do you get?

[kid_sketch]

I received a reading of .010

[JWWebster]

did you remove the wires?

[kid_sketch]

so this means im lacking continuity in the element and is most likely the problem correct?

[kid_sketch]

I checked both with and without wires connected. same reading .010

[JWWebster]

Remove and inspect the element for breaks I think it is bad.

[jumptrout51]

You said you read 120volts on each leg at the terminal block. Do you read 240 volts across the 2 hot legs there?
With your meter set for volts and the dryer running in a heat mode do you have 240 volts at the 2 terminals on the heating element.
If so the element is bad.
If not start back tracking to all thermostats and relays checking for continuity of the part with the dryer unplugged and the wires removed from the component.
Those parts would be the hi-limit thermostat the thermal cutoff and the operating thermostat.
You can check the motor relay centrifugal switch to make sure it is closing to send one leg of power to the element.