Kenmore 70 Series Washer - no cold water, weak spin cycle?

[Q451990]

My Mom has a Kenmore 70 Series Model 110.26702693, S/N CH1024046.

She's not getting any cold water into the tub - but the hot water side is fine. She has the flood-safe hoses, and I tested the hose by disconnecting it and turning on the shutoff valve while spraying water into the drum to make sure the check valve hasn't tripped. The water flow is fine through the hose. Is the inlet valve a common failure item on these washers?

Also, she has complained for a couple of months that she doesn't think the spin cycle is working properly. The clothes come out dripping sometimes, and it's especially noticeable on towels. With the washer empty, the spin cycle looks fine to me - but I don't have much for comparison. The tub stops very quickly when I remove the screwdriver from the lid switch - if that tells you anything about the clutch or coupler condition...

Is this beast worth fixing? Would this be a relatively easy fix? I'm pretty mechanically inclined - but I don't really want to make a weekend project out of fixing her washer.

We shopped for new HE front loaders yesterday and after reading up on everyone's repairs I'm a little gun shy. We bought Kenmore front loaders for our house in 2006 and have been happy with them - but I'm almost afraid to make eye contact with them now after reading about circuit board replacements and bearing failures!  

Any advice would be greatly appreciated - particularly on fix vs. scrap - and if your advice is "scrap it" what brand/model would you recommend for a replacement?

Thanks!

Heath

Model 110.26702693

[JWWebster]

I would keep this washer. To check the water valve you need to flip up the control panel.
HOW TO FLIP UP THE CONTROLS: CLICK HERE
Did you check the inlet screens on the valve?

[Q451990]

Well, I had limited space, so I didn't check the screens that well... sort of probed it with my finger and didn't get anything back, but I can get a mirror and check it better.

Thanks!

Heath

[Q451990]

Just checked the screen and it's clear.  I could see through the screen to a white area with a small hole where the water flows through.

Think it's a bad valve?

Heath

[Q451990]

Oh... and is there a way to ohm test the solenoid on the valve?

[JWWebster]

If it has continuity then yes the solenoid is good but the mechanicals within might not be. You can power up the suspect solenoid using a 120 v lamp cord with clips. Briefly disconnect the solenoid from the harness and power the coil up a sec just to see if water shoots out, that is if you are careful and comfortable with doing that. If it turns out the water valve is ok then the next thing to look at is the water temp selector switch.

[Q451990]

I'm pretty comfortable checking it with a lamp cord... I'll try to get there tomorrow.  Any thoughts on things not getting dry enough sometimes after a spin?

Thanks!

Heath

[JWWebster]

Sand or strings in the pump can cause a slow drain effect.

[Q451990]

Well, I tested the valve by swapping the cold and hot wires, and the problem stayed with the valve.  So I swapped the hoses so that at least she can run the washer in cold/cold mode.  I figured that'll be a little better for her than carrying jugs of water to the washer for the rinse cycle.

I asked her to run it with a few loads over the weekend and see if the wet clothes issue is continuing... it looks like it's spinning pretty well to me.

Thanks!

Heath

[Q451990]

Thanks again for your help!  I put a new valve in on Monday and it's working great!  10 minutes for the valve and 45 wrestling with getting the cabinet back on.  Front and one side was no problem, but front and two sides almost kicked my butt!

Heath

[viking351]

bad design on the cabinet everyone has problems putting it back together.
its almost inpossible.