Author Topic: Whirlpool double oven GBD277PDB09 locked after self clean cycle and blank panel  (Read 8826 times)

Offline Repair-man

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That was my guess too, as you read earlier.
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Offline aaronw112358

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Right, I agree it's the thermal control fuse as well, but do you know what part number I have to order?  This is the part that is stumping me.  Thank you for all of your helpful advice!

Offline JWWebster

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« Last Edit: January 29, 2010, 12:24:26 PM by JWWebster »
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Offline Repair-man

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JW, thanks for your opulent input...it's not correct.

Aaron
The thermostat fixer he mentions is a disc on back of the oven which has nothing at all to do with the display, but controls power to the elements only. The part you need is not a replacement part listed on the diagram, but would come with a new wiring harness. In the field, we simply hardwire a new one inline. You will find it just ahead of the control in a clear plastic sleeve. It is a silver object and very small. It can be cut from the harness and purchase a general thermal link type of fue at any A/C supply houe (uses for heat strips in furnaces) or bypass it altogteher and hope like heck the cooling fan never fails :)

Needless to say the best advice is to never use the self-clean.

Thermal Links-
« Last Edit: January 29, 2010, 01:50:13 PM by Repair-man »
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Offline aaronw112358

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Repair-man, thanks for the input, that's exactly what I mean.  Do you know how I could get one of those plastic sleeves to re-encase the new fuse?  I have some moderate amount of technical know-how, but I think I just want to have knowledge of all the parts before I proceed.  Is the thermal fuse marked with the temperature on it?

Offline jumptrout51

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Use a small heat shrink sleeve after you connect the fuse.
Take a Kid fishing.

Offline Repair-man

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Repair-man, thanks for the input, that's exactly what I mean.  Do you know how I could get one of those plastic sleeves to re-encase the new fuse?  I have some moderate amount of technical know-how, but I think I just want to have knowledge of all the parts before I proceed.  Is the thermal fuse marked with the temperature on it?

Yes, the temperature is actually stamped on the barrel of the fuse, if you have a microscope :)

Most of the standard links at the AC & Heat stores will be the same anyway, so just go generic (255 degrees F). After all, the main fixer stat in back will take care of any unreasonable overheating, and by avoiding the self clean cycle from now on there should not be an issue to begin with. As I mentioned, be sure the upper cooling fan is coming on during broiling and any baking over 300 degrees.

Jumptrout is right on target with the heat-shrink, but any hi-temp  insulating material or tape will do..
« Last Edit: January 30, 2010, 06:38:09 AM by Repair-man »
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Offline aaronw112358

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So for all who were raptly wondering what the final outcome was, I ended up having to replace the control panel thermal fuse, the upper oven thermal fuse, the control board, the keypad, and a transformer inside the top part of the oven.  Not cheap, and I don't recommend using self clean!

Offline Repair-man

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We've been preaching the "Don't use self-clean" sermon for years :)

People always seem to learn the hard (expensive) way.
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
The Virtual Repairman   www.repair2000.com

 

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