Author Topic: Whirlpool double oven GBD277PDB09 locked after self clean cycle and blank panel  (Read 11133 times)

Offline aaronw112358

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So I have a double wall oven Whirlpool GBD277PDB09 that I have 2 problems with:

1) Display is blank, even after turning off breaker, waiting 10 minutes, and then turning it back on.

2) Top oven is locked, as it appears that whatever failure happened, happened during a self clean cycle, so I can't get in there.

Something like this did happen before, about 3 years ago.  I am not sure if I did the self clean that time, but I don't think so.  They had to replace two parts - CNTRL-ELEC 22 664 8301848 1 and SUB ELEC-CON 22 664 8302319 1

I'm also having some difficulty removing the panel to start to do some diagnostics and I forgot how he removed it when he was here that time - I can't seem to be able to find the missing latch.  So that's my story as of now - anyone have any suggestions?

Offline Repair-man

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Will the oven slide out? If not, try using a flat brazing rod with the end curled over to pull the door latch to the left where it is stuck in the door slot.

I suspect the blank out is the result of a thermal control fuse in the black L1 wire feeding the electronic control, but you'll have to have the door open to access the panel. Here's the tech Sheet so you can see the thermal fuse, etc.

Tech Sheet
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Offline aaronw112358

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I'm not sure what you mean by slide out - I can't seem to get a good grip on it anywhere to move it out.  I also can't really see any of the latch mechanism when I look with a flashlight at the top.  Do you mean inserting a rod vertically or horizontally?  There doesn't appear to be much space to do it vertically...

Offline Repair-man

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A rod can be inserted sideways from the left side of the door in some cases where there is enough clearance. This is in order to  grasp the hook on the door latch and pull it leftward to relese the door from it's grip. From there it's all downhill.
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Offline aaronw112358

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I think I may need a picture or something to understand what you're trying to describe.  There's no way to put anything in the door from the sides unless I remove the trim as well (how do I do that?)

Offline Repair-man

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 There is a tiny gap between the door and the front of the oven, even though the door is locked. There is plenty of space for a thin brazing rod to slip in there to hook the latch lever and pull it leftward so the door will open.

You never broke into a car with a coathanger?
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Offline aaronw112358

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Sadly, no, I never had the chance to break into a car with a coat hanger.  Maybe I'll try to take a picture of the gap on the top and figure out what to do with it.  Alternatively, do you (or anyone else) have the service manual for this oven model?

Offline Repair-man

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Yes, try this link:

WP Double Oven Manual (11 MB)
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Offline aaronw112358

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repair-man, awesome!  I will break out my toolkit at home over the week and see what I can do with this information.  Yes, I will not forget to turn off the breaker FIRST.

Offline aaronw112358

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Thanks again for the tech note, I was able to pull off the side trim and the control panel and detach it from the wiring harness.  I recruited a friend with a multimeter and did some testing.  It definitely looks like the thermal fuse feeding the control panel is  blown.  We tested a couple of paths on the control board and got continuity in the right places, so that seemed to work, but no continuity through the thermal fuse. 

Next question, how do I replace this?  On the tech sheet you linked to, specifically page 3-2 where it has a blow up of the thermal fuse, mine doesn't link to a board connector by itself, it's in a wiring harness with a electrical crimp connector underneath some molded plastic.  I can detach the spade connector from one one, but the other end is a little bit trickier to remove.  What part numbers are associated with this?

Thanks again for all your assistance!

-aw

Offline aaronw112358

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So I did some more digging around and found the following two control panel thermal fuses:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3777386 which looks *very* close to mine, except the plastic "hood" is larger, covering the silver crimp connector on the left hand side.  However, the model numbers that this part is used it isn't close to mine - so this isn't right.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3110028 comes up and is used in a somewhat closer model (listed models are GBD277PDB2), but mine does not have both of the orange connectors on it - just the one on the right.  I'll try to upload a picture whwen I get home tonight.

Offline aaronw112358

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Here are some pictures I took of the thermal fuse - hopefully this will shed some light on the subject.  The black wire to the right goes directly into a white terminal block plug, similar to the one directly below it.

-aw

Offline JWWebster

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Bullet fuses; Comes in different temps for various things from furnaces to bathroom heaters and from coffee pots to space heaters. usually set for 350 designed to kill power in case the control section gets too damn hot during self clean. I used to sell them for $1 a piece. I do not know why these sumbutches are so hard to find on line. Here is what a gas furnace one looks like
« Last Edit: January 12, 2010, 04:13:37 PM by JWWebster »
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Offline Earl Dryer

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Look at fuse and get the Temperature (189C) or what ever, go to the local electronic supply house and buy a new thermal fuse then make your own (Under $2) Radio Shack may even have the correct one.

Offline aaronw112358

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Hi all, was away for a week and wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas on how I can get this fuse replaced.  I will look at it tonight and see if I can find a temperature number on it to replace that part, but I'm not so sure as to how I would be able to get that plastic cover back on the part afterwards...


 

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