Author Topic: Whirlpool double oven GBD277PDB09 locked after self clean cycle and blank panel  (Read 11385 times)

Offline aaronw112358

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So I did some more digging around and found the following two control panel thermal fuses:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3777386 which looks *very* close to mine, except the plastic "hood" is larger, covering the silver crimp connector on the left hand side.  However, the model numbers that this part is used it isn't close to mine - so this isn't right.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3110028 comes up and is used in a somewhat closer model (listed models are GBD277PDB2), but mine does not have both of the orange connectors on it - just the one on the right.  I'll try to upload a picture whwen I get home tonight.

Offline aaronw112358

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Here are some pictures I took of the thermal fuse - hopefully this will shed some light on the subject.  The black wire to the right goes directly into a white terminal block plug, similar to the one directly below it.

-aw

Offline JWWebster

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Bullet fuses; Comes in different temps for various things from furnaces to bathroom heaters and from coffee pots to space heaters. usually set for 350 designed to kill power in case the control section gets too damn hot during self clean. I used to sell them for $1 a piece. I do not know why these sumbutches are so hard to find on line. Here is what a gas furnace one looks like
« Last Edit: January 12, 2010, 04:13:37 PM by JWWebster »
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Offline Earl Dryer

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Look at fuse and get the Temperature (189C) or what ever, go to the local electronic supply house and buy a new thermal fuse then make your own (Under $2) Radio Shack may even have the correct one.

Offline aaronw112358

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Hi all, was away for a week and wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas on how I can get this fuse replaced.  I will look at it tonight and see if I can find a temperature number on it to replace that part, but I'm not so sure as to how I would be able to get that plastic cover back on the part afterwards...


Offline Repair-man

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That was my guess too, as you read earlier.
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
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Offline aaronw112358

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Right, I agree it's the thermal control fuse as well, but do you know what part number I have to order?  This is the part that is stumping me.  Thank you for all of your helpful advice!

Offline JWWebster

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« Last Edit: January 29, 2010, 12:24:26 PM by JWWebster »
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline Repair-man

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JW, thanks for your opulent input...it's not correct.

Aaron
The thermostat fixer he mentions is a disc on back of the oven which has nothing at all to do with the display, but controls power to the elements only. The part you need is not a replacement part listed on the diagram, but would come with a new wiring harness. In the field, we simply hardwire a new one inline. You will find it just ahead of the control in a clear plastic sleeve. It is a silver object and very small. It can be cut from the harness and purchase a general thermal link type of fue at any A/C supply houe (uses for heat strips in furnaces) or bypass it altogteher and hope like heck the cooling fan never fails :)

Needless to say the best advice is to never use the self-clean.

Thermal Links-
« Last Edit: January 29, 2010, 01:50:13 PM by Repair-man »
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Offline aaronw112358

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Repair-man, thanks for the input, that's exactly what I mean.  Do you know how I could get one of those plastic sleeves to re-encase the new fuse?  I have some moderate amount of technical know-how, but I think I just want to have knowledge of all the parts before I proceed.  Is the thermal fuse marked with the temperature on it?

 

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