Adaptive DefrostGE Profile Side by Side

[Nugget]

Hello All,
Have been working on my GE side by side fridge for a while now due to a so called "technician" coming over an replacing the main control board ($200) without troubleshooting anything. So now after discovering (thanks barberofcivil) there is no hold button to initiate diagnostic testing as stated in the manual (it has a place on the board where it used to be on earlier models), I have now diagnosed the actual issue.
The problem is, during the defrost cycle the temperature in both the fresh and freezer sides gets too high (35F in the freezer and 50F in the fridge). The rest of the cycle appears to run correctly.

The temperatures stay within spec during normal operation. Tested the temperature thermistors and they are within spec. I have thoroughly read all of the tech manuals and it appears to me that the heater / thermostat is getting too hot and then shutting off.

So with this limited information, will replacing the heater and thermostat solve the problem, or am I missing something else here? Any help is very much appreciated!!

Model GSS22S

[JWWebster]

Their is supposed to be a pre-chill to get the freezer section colder to compensate for the higher defrost and dwell. Afterwards a post dwell occurs where the compressor comes on but the evap fans don't to get that coil super cold before kicking in the after burners. Is all that working ok? I was wondering if the air flow under the ice box has some sort of air blockage?

[Nugget]

The pre-chill seems to be functioning correctly (down to -17F).
Not sure about the evap fans being active after the dwell. There is no blockage of air that I can see. I have it all apart right now, but was wondering if there is a test for the defrost overtemp switch? Was wondering if it could be stuck on? I tested the circuit and there is continiuty at room temperature, but not really sure how to test it otherwise.

I'm probably going to put it all back together and then try to follow the defrost sequence all the way through (again). Need to figure out how to initiate the defrost sequence though.... any other thoughts of what it could be?

[Al Capone]

Hi Nugget,

Could you post the model number of your refrigerator?

The model number can be found on the model/serial number tag that is located on the refrigerator.

Check picture below for possible model number tag locations.



Thanks for posting your questions.

[JWWebster]

My Manual

[Nugget]

Thanks for the responses! Actually have read the adaptive defrost manual, was wondering if you have the answer key to check my understanding though. This morning I've verified the overtemp switch is functioning properly. (Put it it warm water and the circuit opened up. When it cooled off it closed the circuit again).
Model Number GSS22S (GRE SS) Interesting though I found the standard manual(s) I have don't match my wiring. Found a wiring diagram in the temperature control board that does match, and it shows a model of SXS22.
The interesting thing here is the thermistor ratings are completely different than the ones in the standard manual. The one I bought matches the one in the refrigerator (resistance wise), but are off by quite a lot according to my SXS-22 wiring diagram specs. Are there different thermistors for different models? Not really sure where to go from here except call GE again..... Or just buy a refrigerator that has no controllers unless I can program it myself!!!!
Thanks for the assistance!!!

[JWWebster]

That is a good question. Maybe one of the other guys can answer that one. I am learning myself. Older stuff is my department. These new bells and whistles is complimacated.

[Nugget]

Latest in the adaptive defrost saga.....

Had pretty much given up on and called the repair man. The Mrs is getting tired of using a mini fridge and I'm getting tired of GE profile refrigerators!
Interesting part is as I was talking to the repair man to come over, I had explained what I had been up to and he said I was on the right track and that trying to troubleshoot the thermistors one by one wasn't really ever that successful unless you have the proper temperature simulation equipment. So , he said if he came by, he'd just change out all the thermistors at once (and the temperature defrost switch). He said I could pay him to do it, or just do it myself and see what happens...... so we'll see what happens next! More to come!!!!

[jumptrout51]

These GE's utilize 4 thermistors. 2 in fresh food and 2 in the freezer.

[JWWebster]

Jumpy are those thermisters all rated the same?

[jumptrout51]

The only difference is the length of the connecting wire harness.

[JWWebster]

Cool

[Nugget]

The saga continues!!!

GE Profile refrigerators are absolute junk!!!

OK, so after replacing all three thermistors and the defrost switch, the defrost cycle ran almost perfectly! The temperatures are still a little out of spec ((-17F to 28F)OK) on the freezer and ((36F to 44F)HI) on the fresh food side. So good enough........ except this morning I checked the temperature ranges and the high on the fresh food side was 58F!!!! 

Crap! So I'm thinking it is acting like something is heating the inside of the fresh food side.... You got it, an intermittent door switch is turning on the lightbulbs sometimes!!!
DOHHHHHHHHH!

So for now I have taped the door switch closed until I can get a new switch this week. That should do it!!!

Thanks to everyone on the site for all of the help and input!!!

Tip:
Anyone wondering how I know the ranges of temperature so well? My model doesn't display the temperatures, but there are digital indoor/outdoor thermometers you can get at Lowes that track the high and low temperatures (and humidity) for the day. I bought 2 and put the outdoor probe(s) inside the freezer & fresh food sides and monitor the temperatures!

[JWWebster]

My Defrost blog

[Nugget]

Finally! FYI, the final chapter of this GE Profile refrigerator.... so far!
The original problem was the fresh food side of the refrigerator temperatures went above 50°F.
The refrigerator repairman came and couldn't find anything as it started working again.
After it happened again, he replaced the computer board (without troubleshooting anything). 
I took over and started troubleshooting. It appeared the adaptive defrost cycle was overheating during its cycle (Temperatures well above freezing).
Checked and replaced all three thermistors (only three on this one, Freezer, evaporator and one fresh food). Also replaced the overtemp switch on the evaporator.
Still over temperature during defrost. After realizing something was heating up inside the refrigerator, noticed the door light switch was intermittent. After replacing the door switch, notice the temperatures were still too high during defrost.
Ready to give up now, until I tried one last thing.....
The door adjustment was slightly low and after making sure the switch was being fully closed with the door adjustment, it all started to work right!!! Now the temperatures are staying within a few degrees of spec and it is DONE!The problem was the adaptive defrost logic was sensing the door was always open and it was maxing out the time estimated for defrost....
So lesson learned, check the door switch first! Hope this helps someone else!
Thanks to everyone on the site!