Whirlpool Dryer Stopped Drying (LER8858EQ2)

[JWWebster]

Parts select has these replacement wires. You mean these?

[Agrajag]

Okay, I've gotten us lost somewhere apparently. I have power. I can power on the dryer just fine. The heating element, however, never heats. It'll run cold all day long. It's not a core power issue. Thus it doesn't involve the circuit breaker or any of the other power-related items I'm pretty sure.

In the picture you'll see the fuse at the top of the bottom-left. That black spot is from me last time. My hands were filthy and I got a spot of grease on it that wouldn't come off. This has continuity. Thus I believe it's okay.

Below that is the bias thermostat. As noted I'm not sure what it should read. The red pair reads continuity. The purple pair reads 7.

Then on the upper right we have the thermal cut-off thermostat. It reads continuity.

On the bottom right we have the high-limit thermostat and it reads continuity.

IMMEDIATELY below that we have the connectors for the heating element itself (which I didn't realize at first) and there's no continuity there but I don't believe there should be.

Another item I'm confused by is the parts list. The list includes all of these things plus one. Part number AP3094244 includes one thermal cut-off (309 degrees) and one high-limit thermostat (250 degrees). This should be both of the thermostats on the right of the picture. The bias/cycling thermostat is part number AP3131939.
The fuse is AP3132867. However, then on the diagram it shows another part number for where the high-limit thermostat goes and calls this a Thermostat, Fixed - Dryer High-Limit and uses part number AP3131941.

Given the information provided does anyone know why I'm running cold? 

[RegUS_PatOff]

.. I have power. I can power on the dryer just fine. The heating element, however, never heats.

Below that is the bias thermostat. As noted I'm not sure what it should read. The red pair reads continuity. The purple pair reads 7.

IMMEDIATELY below that we have the connectors for the heating element itself and there's no continuity there but I don't believe there should be...

NO, the Dryer Motor will still run if one side of the 220v line is blown (house Circuit Breaker, Fuse, etc)

If it has 4 wires, that's the Bias Thermostat.
Only 2 connections will have continuity.

The Heating Element should have continuity (actually, about 10 OHMS)

[JWWebster]

Find the heavy red wire that goes to the timer. Remove that wire from the timer and check that leg of the timer with any other leg on the timer. Turn the timer and keep checking. If you get no continuity then the timer is bad.

BAD TIMER PIC

[Agrajag]

Reg, the circuit breaker checks out. Thanks for the info though. I never realized that. Is there a way to check a 220 line with a volt meter? Never done that before.

JW, I'll check the timer now.

[Agrajag]

Oh, and Reg, what if the heating element has no continuity? I'm checking it at the point I mentioned before (the two connectors just below the lower thermostat).

[Agrajag]

Okay, regarding the timer:

I removed the red wire. Going clockwise around from the read lead there are several other leads. The first two or three all drop to zero. From there on in they do show continuity but don't drop to zero. Now all of this is with the timer in standard Timed mode. The other modes seem to have no impact (no continuity) at all. These are the modes that are "smart" modes that I suspect don't use the timer and thus don't apply here.