Author Topic: performa dryer doesnt heat, wire at one of the heater terminals burns up  (Read 2979 times)

Offline redskinsfan

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my dryer wasnt heating up, took apart and seen wire broke off from bottom terminal on heater, could tell it had been hot,repair wire,removed old burnt up wire terminal from heater,install new wire terminal, reconnect, reassemble,start dryer was heating up ,about 15 minutes later not heating anymore, disassemble, could tell wire at the same terminal burnt up again, the whole wire isnt burning up,just at the terminal, removed heater,everything looks fine, it ohmed out at 10  ohms, was hoping to see something obvious why just heating up at this terminal. any suggestions?

Model pdet910ayw

Offline jumptrout51

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Turn the breaker off to the dryer circuit.
Open the outlet cover on the wall and inspect and tighten the wire terminals. Open and inspect the wire terminals where the cord connects to the dryer.
Look for a loose connection where the cord spades fit the female slots in the outlet.
Take a Kid fishing.

Offline redskinsfan

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after turning power off, removed cover for outlet at wall check connections, all tight, look at dryer connection from cord to back of dryer all tight, plugged cord into outlet with cover off  connections seemed all tight.

Offline JWWebster

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The thermostat on the blower housing is probably not shuting down properly.

Click for part
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Offline redskinsfan

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can you check that thermostat with an ohm meter ,looks like it has five terminals on it, is that the cycling thermostat, if so how does it work?

Offline JWWebster

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It has 4 terminals. 2 big uns that carry the heater current. 2 smaller wires supply power to a bias heater inside that thermostat. When you want a delicate or perma press heat the timer powers up that heater to make the thang shut down faster than it would for cotton. Over time the control stays on longer than it should. Makes the clothes come out hot to the touch and all wrinkled. The excessive heat from that causes the limit on the heater to open and close to operate the cycle rather than the cycling thermostat. Instead of a steady 160f for cotton you gets 240f. Not enough to trip the 300f melter mounted on the heater. But enough to make the 250 degree limit to cycle. The filter will warp as a telltale sign of a bad cycling thermostat.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2009, 11:09:34 PM by JWWebster »
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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
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Offline redskinsfan

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whats a cycling thermostat usually run cost wise, and since the heater has a burnt up terminal end on it should i go ahead and replace it, what do those run?

Offline JWWebster

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You cannot fix the burnt end on the element. Been there tried that.
The cycle thermostat exactamundo is this one I posted earlier:

Cycle thermostat for RedSkinsFan

BTW: I am a huge Skins fans. When I ain't hollrin fer them Saintz!!! who dat?. :rofl:
« Last Edit: November 23, 2009, 07:36:35 PM by JWWebster »
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

 

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