OK so form your LCD display indication is the Control Board working or sort of working? Can you get into Service Mode? I was trying to determine what Control Board functions you have, health of the Control Board with the 14 pin harness unplugged.
You select some cycle and the lid locks latch closed for the start of whatever that cycle is but it sounds like the +12VDC that is used for signaling down to the lid locks and back to the Control Board for Lid locked input (slide switch in lid lock) and Lid is Closed (magnetic reed relay in the Left Lid Lock) may not be making it back to the control Board. “”the screen beeps and reads that it seems like the lid is not locked or fulley closed.”” Do you feel comfortable troubleshooting on the Control Board? Also if you reinstall your old Console/Control Board do you have the same results as the replacement?
I would measure +12VDC source voltage at Conn_P3 pin 3&4 and Control Board Common and make sure that is good. If I can figure out how to attach a pic I would show you the lead on the bypass capacitor that I clip on for Control Board common on the FAV6800A .
If +12VDC reads correctly then I would start a Spin Only Cycle (so you are not filling the wash tub with water) and make sure you see +12VDC to Conn_P3 Pin 8 Lid Locked Input from the lid lock slide switch and +12VDC back to Conn_P3 Pin 9 Lid Is Closed Input thru the magnetic reed relay in the left hand lid lock assembly. If you do then your LCD should indicate that the Lid is Locked and the Lid is Closed.
I’m going in a direction that the +12VDC signaling/source voltage may not measure correctly at the Control Board inputs for those functions. If you review the machines schematic you will see what I’m doing.
When you connect the 14 pin wiring harness plug in the Console you send down +12VDC thru the 14 pin connector to the TDS and the Low/Mid level pressure switch contacts but you also kill the LCD display.
I would troubleshoot to get the upper half of the machine to at least give correct signaling that the Lid is Locked the Lid is Closed first then plug in the 14 pin harness connector and see where we are.
I would be very careful with any DVM/Ohm meter readings you make on the machine. Don’t go near the Control Board,TDS, or digital inputs to the Motor Controller with an Ohm meter. If you decide to make continuity readings in the wiring harness I would unplug/isolate those items from the wiring harness. I prefer to trace the +12VDC signaling with the DVM and measure 120VAC where appropriate.