Author Topic: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE  (Read 13341 times)

Offline gkofc

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Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« on: November 20, 2009, 02:02:43 PM »
No display at all.

Model fav9800aww

Offline whirlpooltech

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2009, 02:15:28 PM »
What have you already checked?

Is there power to the control board?
Is there power to the washer?

Offline gkofc

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2009, 02:35:58 PM »
New control board part # 25001218
New control panel part # 25001208
I have power to both, but no display. I also have power to lid locks 110 volts at  each switchs brown to white wires.

Offline Repair-man

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2009, 05:21:08 AM »
Let me just relate this to you...I have been working on a FAV6800 for 2 weeks now that I ordered a control and panel for. The first 2 controls I got from WP appeared to be used and  did not function. The control panel they sent also had been tried before, as the cover film on the touch pads was missing. For whatever reason, WP is giving out some really bad parts the past 6 months or so. Understandably, the Neptune TL has not been made since 2004, so the parts are old from sitting in the warehouse.

The control board supplies the power to light up the screen. You can actually take the console off and  place a 120 volt test cord on the board at the L1 and Neutral terminals on the right rear area of the board to make the display work on the bench. If nothing lights up the board has pobably got a bad transformer. Be sure the ribbon connector from the touchpad is securely clamped in the board receptacle also.
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
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Offline dh1200s

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2009, 09:04:45 AM »
I agree with the possible 2nd bad control board part # 25001218

I own the FAV6800AW and do all my own work.  For the lid lock relay field coil that wire is Brown and it goes to Conn-P1 pin 2 then to the Door Lock Solenoid relay K-9 for 120VAC hot lead.  You can verify per your LCD version of the washer schematic.

K9 and K10 relays are normally open until the Control Board pulses the relay closed momentarily which provides momentary 120VAC to change the state of the Lid Lock form Open to Closed Ė Closed to Open. 

If you measure continuous 120VAC with your DVM between the Brown wire (hot lead) and White wire (AC line neutral) then I feel you have a bad control board.       

Offline gkofc

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2009, 09:23:08 AM »
Thank you both for your advice.I will reorder the board. Have a great Thanksgiving!

Offline dh1200s

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2009, 09:52:28 AM »
gkofc

You have a good Thanksgiving also. 

Just a heads up; our machines suffer big time from a poor clutch design, sticky/contaminated One-Roller Clutches causing big time dC/uC errors with violent wash tub swings, part # 25001169
Second is Left Hand Lid Lock corrosion issues causing OP,OD,FL and a few other error codes if you havenít already experienced.  So many of these machines get trashed for these minor issues. 

Good Luck Rich


Offline dh1200s

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2009, 09:56:54 AM »
 ""One-Roller Clutches""  :(

Sorry One-Way Roller Clutches. 

Offline gkofc

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2009, 10:35:37 AM »
Hello,I put test cord on l1 and Neutral with all wires off of control board except ribbon to screen.The screen lit up. With wires connected to board,no display.

Offline Repair-man

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2009, 11:29:08 AM »
This is telling you that one of the component that attache to the board is drawing wxcessive amps, causing the draw on the display transformer. Use your Tech Sheet in the top panel to check resistance on the door lock switches.
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
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Offline gkofc

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2009, 11:55:11 AM »
Ok I disconected both door locks(connector blocks )what I did find is that if I disconnect upper harness to lower harness the display will come on,

Offline Repair-man

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2009, 12:59:38 PM »
Ok, so if you keep on going ....disconnect back to each door switch you should eventually arrive.
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
The Virtual Repairman   www.repair2000.com

Offline dh1200s

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #12 on: November 23, 2009, 04:19:46 PM »
Hello gkofc,
 
You did not mention besides the display lighting up when you removed the 14 pin Upper to Lower harness connector did the Control Board boot up?  Can you get into Service Mode?   Can you select Spin Only cycle and have the Lid Locks lock the lid?  Just wondering what Control Board functionality returned with just the 14 pin Upper to Lower harness connector pulled.  I pulled 14 pin Upper to Lower harness connector apart and had the above Control Board functionality.     Rich

Offline gkofc

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2009, 02:39:44 PM »
Ok,The lid locks will work with the 14 pin connector disconected,but the screen beeps and reads that it seems like the lid is not locked or fulley closed.

Offline dh1200s

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Re: Maytag T/l NEPTUNE
« Reply #14 on: November 24, 2009, 05:54:19 PM »
OK so form your LCD display indication is the Control Board working or sort of working?  Can you get into Service Mode?   I was trying to determine what Control Board functions you have, health of the Control Board with the 14 pin harness unplugged. 

You select some cycle and the lid locks latch closed for the start of whatever that cycle is but it sounds like the +12VDC that is used for signaling down to the lid locks and back to the Control Board for Lid locked input (slide switch in lid lock) and Lid is Closed (magnetic reed relay in the Left Lid Lock) may not be making it back to the control Board.  ďĒthe screen beeps and reads that it seems like the lid is not locked or fulley closed.ĒĒ   Do you feel comfortable troubleshooting on the Control Board?   Also if you reinstall your old Console/Control Board do you have the same results as the replacement?

I would measure +12VDC source voltage at Conn_P3 pin 3&4 and Control Board Common and make sure that is good.    If I can figure out how to attach a pic I would show you the lead on the bypass capacitor that I clip on for Control Board common on the FAV6800A .   

If +12VDC reads correctly then I would start a Spin Only Cycle (so you are not filling the wash tub with water) and make sure you see +12VDC to Conn_P3 Pin 8 Lid Locked Input from the lid lock slide switch and +12VDC back to Conn_P3 Pin 9 Lid Is Closed Input thru the magnetic reed relay in the left hand lid lock assembly.   If you do then your LCD should indicate that the Lid is Locked and the Lid is Closed.

Iím going in a direction that the +12VDC signaling/source voltage may not measure correctly at the Control Board inputs for those functions.   If you review the machines schematic you will see what Iím doing. 

When you connect the 14 pin wiring harness plug in the Console you send down +12VDC thru the 14 pin connector to the TDS and the Low/Mid level pressure switch contacts but you also kill the LCD display.

I would troubleshoot to get the upper half of the machine to at least give correct signaling that the Lid is Locked the Lid is Closed first then plug in the 14 pin harness connector and see where we are.       

I would be very careful with any DVM/Ohm meter readings you make on the machine. Donít go near the Control Board,TDS, or digital inputs to the Motor Controller with an Ohm meter.   If you decide to make continuity readings in the wiring harness I would unplug/isolate those items from the wiring harness.  I prefer to trace the +12VDC signaling with the DVM and measure 120VAC where appropriate. 

Rich

 

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