Maytag Performa Dryer won't heat up

[Hoop]

The terminals I tested were the side two on Part #1 and the top terminals on part #3. Im still not clear on what type of reading I am looking for to determine good or bad.

[whirlpooltech]

The heater is part number one.
To test the heater you would unplug the dryer.
Then unplug the two wires going to the element.
Take the probes from your ohm meter and put them on the heating element terminals were you just unplugged the two wires.

If you get no reading at all on your meter the element is bad.
If your heating element checks bad you can confirm this by removing the heating element and visually inspecting the coils of the heating element for a broken spot.

If you don't under stand how to use the meter you may want to study this guide.

How to use Test Equipment

[Hoop]

Looks like it must be the element. No reading at all on it. Gonna remove and visually inspect.

[whirlpooltech]

Look close and wiggle the element wires a bit with your finger. Sometimes the brake in the wire is hard to see.

[whirlpooltech]

I looked up the heating element using the model number of your dryer and it takes part number: LA-1044

[Hoop]

Okay. I ordered and installed the element and thermostat (LA-1044), wired everything back up and plugged the dryer in to give it a whirl. When I turned the dial to set the dryer up to operate there was a spark and puff of smoke from under the lid about where the new element is. I checked the element and the top coils where no longer straight and look burned. I closed it back up and ran the dryer for about five minutes and it worked and actually heated up but it shut down on its own and now it is dead in the water. No worky at all. Did I just kill this thing?


LA-1044 Dryer Heating Element Kit, AP4242494

[JWWebster]

I was working on one that did the same thing. A cust of mine used a limit on top of the heater that was not exactly like the original. Sometimes getting the exact replacement is the better way. The terminals of the generic rubbed up against the frame and shorted out. Also the clip that holds the small limit to the side of the heater housing can get shorted quick if you didn't look real close at that long screw as it was going into place. In that case it would be dead as a doornail. I know from experience.

[Hoop]

So is it salvageable or would it make more sense to buy another? If I sink too much more $$ I could be half way to a new dryer.

[JWWebster]

The newer dryers are pretty crappy with their new fangled expensive asiatic mexitronic boards made from recycled JB Hunt tail lamps stolen from trailers parked too close to the border. This one is worth fixing.

[Hoop]

So how should I back track and troubleshoot this issue?

[JWWebster]

Only thing you can do is unplug the machine and pop the top. Look for burnt wires and such. I would think it is a blown thermal limit If you click the pic it will get bigger. Is this your configuration? The lookup did not specify.

[Hoop]

The element is the part that looks burnt.

[whirlpooltech]

The element is the part that looks burnt.

Test it just like you did the original element that was bad.
If the new element is bad there is no repair to it. The only thing you can do with a bad element is to replace it.

[Hoop]

So it looks like the short definitely occured on the element. What might have caused it. Touching the sides of the frame or the screw that secures it?

[Hoop]

And like I said earlier. The dryer actually ran and heated up after the initial spark and smoke. But it shut down after about 10 minutes.