Admiral mega 22 plus

[monitor51]

Admiral mega 22 plus
Model # ADE20N3V Rev 14, serial 14838332UW.
3 wire 120/240v 60hz 1ph and it's on a 30 amp circut.

Power source to unit is good. Getting power on cord also.

Currently the dryer is dead. Yesterday it would run, I'd leave and come back and it had stopped. Did this several times and it did get the load dry. Currently this is no functioning.

I've had dryers spin with no heat and there was a little thing, sorry don't remember, that needed to be fixed. I'm about to look for a diagram on this model if I can find one, regardless I'm going to start digging around. Would like some ideas where to go. 1st thing I'm going to check is to make sure the wires in the back are where they are suppose to be. After that I'm in uncharted waters.

I'd like to find a downloadable manual before I start to tear into this thing.  Right now I'm not sure what I should be looking for.

Any insight is appreciated.

[JWWebster]

The fuse is mounted on the heater element housing, part # LA-1053
The long screw that holds down the element also holds the fuse to the side of the heater chamber. Mostly the blower housing will get full of lint or the blower itself will get loose and cause the clothes to take a long time to dry. The heat will finally blow the fuse due to a reduced or restricted airflow.
Maytag repair photos

[Repair-man]

The hi-limit kit is part # LA-1053 Dryer Thermostat Kit

[JWWebster]

Check THIS manual OUT!!!  

Maybe THIS one is better 

[monitor51]

I've set my multimeter to the ohms setting to see if some parts were stuck open.  In the picture of the link you sent for the thermostat parts, and here really pardon my temonilogy, I tested the big part with the sticker and the reading was zero.  This was located on the very top of what I'm assuming to be the heater coil. 

I could only see one of the smaller things and was able to get the leads on it.  It bounced around all over the place.  If that is what I'm hoping the reading should have been zero.  So maybe I've found the culprit?

[JWWebster]

Remove the wires from each item before checking for continuity.

UNPLUG THAT MUTHA

[RegUS_PatOff]

If it reads "0" it has contiunity no matter if it's connected or not.

If it "bounces all over the place" .. it doesn't have contiunity .. (if your probe connections are good)
no need to disconnect before testing ...

[monitor51]

Well, I did disconnect the mutha before I tested.   I'll try to get some pics to show what I'm looking at, then use my mad skills in paint. 

If it is showing no continuity then it's bad isn't it?  Provided I'm testing the right things.

[RegUS_PatOff]

...If it is showing no continuity then it's bad isn't it?  Provided I'm testing the right things...

yes, unless you're testing a (4)wire Themostat.. that's different ...

[JWWebster]

Yep

[monitor51]

Replaced the parts that come with the kit.  Still dead 

Given the age of this dryer I'm thinking of replacing, though I really don't want to.  I'd hate to keep replacing parts to the tune of a new dryery or pay someome to come out and look at it and replce wht is wroght.  Aging that would probalby come to tabout the cost cost of a new dryer anyway. 

Unless someone can think of another thing to try that isn't going to cost more than $50.

I'd like to thank you guys for the responses, you have been great.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Do the (new) Thermostats show continuity now ?

OR did they "blow" again becuse of Venting issues ?

[JWWebster]

If the blower is slipping that can cause the fuse to blow

[monitor51]

This saga just keeps getting better.  My wife finds a GE Mod DJSR473ET6AA on the web site for the local trader.  People want $50, seems like a good deal, dryer is in good shape.  I get around to hooking it up tonight and this one won't go.  It's getting it 240V according to the multimeter.  The light in the tumbler comes on when the door is open, it goes off when the button is pushed.

What I've thought was a little odd, is that when the door is open and the dryer is set to timer setting it is making a noise and it coming from the dial with the timer.  It hasn't moved that I noticed so I'm going to let it sit with the door open for 5 or so minutes to see it it moved. 

Holy cow, the timer moved with the door open.  It didn't move one minute when I had the power on and the door shut.  So, now I'm really back ackwards confused.

[JWWebster]

You either have a broken belt or a blown fuse. The fuse is a WE4X800. It is mounted on the heater pan. To get to it you remove the screws from inside the door holding down the top. While you have the top up you can take a peek at the belt around the drum.