KENMORE 417.44152400 won't enter spin cycle

[Critterhntr]

I have the same model and I have the same exact same problem with my front load washer. I have replaced the control board and got the same error that the control board was bad. I pulled the door latch and measured the ohm resistance on the PTC and got a reading of 1508. I performed the test you mentioned about locking the door and unplugging the power, the door unlock immediately and was able to be opened. Any other ideas?  Thanks

Model 417.44152400

[Al Capone]

Hi Critterhntr

Please be sure to read, Posting Basics - Starting a New Topic.

Note were it says towards the bottom.

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In other words, please don't hijack the topic and make it yours.
Start your own topic and reference the other topic related to your issue.

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Thanks for posting your questions.

[Repair-man]

What, exactly, was the error  code? And which board did you replace, the main control up top or the motor speed control?

[Critterhntr]

I am having a problem with my Kenmore front loader washer. It does not want to perform spin cycles at all. I followed the Washer Tech Data Sheet to identify the error code and found E43, which is to replace the upper control board. I ordered the control board, replaced it and the washer would still not perform spin cycles. Prior to going thru a wash cycle, I did clear the stored error code. So I performed the diagnostic tests, which are listed in the Tech Data Sheet, and checked the error code and found it to be E43 again.  So I performed the diagnostic tests again, that are listed in the Tech Data Sheet, and when I got to step 9, the drain pump and door lock solenoid did activate and the washer went into a high spin. So, this tells me that the spin cycle works, manually, but not thru the normal wash cycles. I don’t feel the door latch is bad since the spin cycle operates under the diagnostic test. I do have a question about the error codes. When the error code starts to flash, both, the 5 vertical LEDs and the Start LED flash 4 times and then the Start LED flashes 3 times. Is this code 43 or 47?

[Repair-man]

It appears you may have gotten a bad control board. The codes you refer to point to the board or the PTC relay. You said you checked the relay and found it within spec, so this does not leave much to the imagination. You are aware that this is the Frigidaire Affinity Washer with a Kenmore Label, so all tests which apply to it apply to your Kenmore. If you need the actual service manual, which may explain more than your tech sheet, click below.

I personally think you need to send the control back and see if they will replace it. But there may be something you overlooked in the process, like double checking the PTC properly according to the manual, etc.

Service Manual

[Critterhntr]

Thanks REPAIR MAN. Sears took back the board and is sending me a new one. I have checked the resistance on the PTC multiple times and it reads around 1508 to 1525 OHMS resistance. What kind of inpact would the motor speed control board have on this issue, if any? Is there something elso I should be looking at? Again, thanks for you help.

[Repair-man]

The electronic control has self diagnostics error codes
built in that cover most products failures.

READING ERROR CODES:
1. Wake the washer by pressing any button.
2. Wait 5 seconds.
3. Press and HOLD the Start/Pause and Cancel
buttons simultaneously. As long as the buttons are
held, the failure code will appear in the display as an
E followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or
two letters. The controlwill beep and the Door Lock,
Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will
flash.

Quick Check
If there is no error displayed and thewashermomentarily
starts then turns back off:
1. Listen for a relay closure inside the motor control
shortly after the Start/Pause key is pressed. If this
happens, themotor control has power.
2. Check the 5 pin connector wiring between the
console control and the motor control.

NOTE: During normal operation, the display may show:
“SAn” - deep clean (Sanitary Cycle)
“cd” - cool down (Sanitary cycle)
“do” or “dr” - door problem.
“Err” - an error has been detected.
“LOC” - control lock is activated.
“PAU” - cycle has been interrupted.

To clear latest stored error code:• Turn the Program Knob to the start position, Spin
Only.
• Press Start/Pause to start the cycle and save it.
• Press Cancel to stop the cycle and turn off the
LEDs.
• Press Cancel again to turn on the LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and
Start/Pause buttons until LEDs start sequentially
chasing, then release buttons.
• Turn the program knob clockwise 7 clicks from the
Start Position. The control will signal the last error
code.
• Press and hold the Options and Start/Pause
buttons for 3 seconds. The code will be cleared.
• Exit Diagnostic Mode to return the washer to normal
operation.
a) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then
reconnect the power cord OR
b) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks
after the Start Position. Press Options and
Start/Pause buttons together for a few seconds
until wash cycle LEDs appear.

[Critterhntr]

Repair man, I got the new control board and I still get the 5 vertical LEDs and the Start LED flashing & blinking 4 times and then the Start LED flashes 3 times by itself. I believe this is error code 47. I test the PTC resistance right after the, what should be the spin cycle,  and get around 500 +/- ohms. As the PTC sits there is does climb up to 1500 + ohms. I decided to monitor the PTC live and I notice that when power was delivered to the PTC, my ohms dropped into the negative, is this normal? And then when power was removed, the ohms would start climbing slowly.

[Repair-man]

What about the Diagnostic tests I mentioned in the previous post? You never said what the results of that was...

[Critterhntr]

Sorry not getting back to you. I don't have a display on the unit, all I have are the LEDs. I did run thru all 10 Diagnostic test and all completed with no problems except diagnostic test number 9. Diagnostic test fails and gives me the 5 vertical LEDs and the Start LED flashing & blinking 4 times and then the Start LED flashes 3 times by itself. I believe this is error code 47. I tested the PTC And that led me to believe that I had a bad control board, because I was getting 1500+ resistance.  I got the new control board and I still get the 5 vertical LEDs and the Start LED flashing & blinking 4 times and then the Start LED flashes 3 times by itself. I believe this is error code 47. I tested the PTC resistance right after the, what should be the spin cycle, and get around 500 +/- ohms. As the PTC sits there is does climb up to 1500 + ohms. I decided to monitor the PTC live and I notice that when power was delivered to the PTC, my ohms dropped into the negative, is this normal? And then when power was removed, the ohms would start climbing slowly

[Repair-man]

I decided to monitor the PTC live and I notice that when power was delivered to the PTC, my ohms dropped into the negative, is this normal? And then when power was removed, the ohms would start climbing slowly

I'm afraid you got me on this one...I can't answer that. Perhaps one of the Frigidaire-savvier techs can help out here...Brnt Toast is a good one to ask or RegUS_PatOff

The manual says for sure that the door lock should measure around 1500 OHMs. If yours is fluctuating, it is bad.

[JWWebster]

Why would the ohms fluctuate with no water in the tub? The positive temperature coefficient must be bad. I would replace that PTC ain't that cheaper than a board?

[Critterhntr]

Hey guys, thanks. I'll get a new door assembly and see if that works. I'll let you know....

[RegUS_PatOff]

... I decided to monitor the PTC live and I notice that when power was delivered to the PTC, my ohms dropped into the negative ...

you can't measure OHMS with power applied ..

your Error Code is 47

Seems like the Door/Lock Switch Assembly is bad.

The PTC can check good resistance, but if the PTC disc itself is no longer glued to the Wax Chamber, then the Plunger won't extend.

There's also (2) Switches in the Door/Lock Switch Assembly that need to be activated...

Here's one test:

Does the Door actually lock ?

If so, then un-plug Washer Power Cord from wall...

Can you immediately open the Door ?
(should have to wait a few minutes)

[Critterhntr]

Hey guys, I just replaced the door lock switch and it corrected the problem. Thanks for all your help.

PROBLEM FINALLY CURED, COULD NOT DIAGNOSE WAX MOTOR BY UNPLUGGING DURING SPIN AS MACHINE WOULD NOT GO INTO SPIN MODE AND SHUT ITSELF OFF, FINALLY TOOK WAX MOTOR APART IN THE DOOR SWITCH AND FOUND WAX WAS ALL OVER IT, PART # 131763202