LG gas dryer flame won't stay lit.

[dus10]

LG LG2532W Dryer. I too am having this problem...

Ignites, flames for a few seconds then shuts off.  After a few minutes the click from the thermostat resetting on the right top of the tube.

I've replaced both thermostat switches (Manual (bottom left) and Auto (top right)), tested them and the flame detector sensor and they all work just fine. They open the circuit when heated and close when cooled off (if thats the correct way to describe it).

What I was wondering is... what is the flame supposed to look like when it ignites? Should it be streamlined like the afterburner on a jet, shooting down the length of the tube? Mine kind of baloons out right at the ignition point and it looks to me like the flame front could be too close to the thermostat hence why it's tripping it and killing the flame.

Now according to the service manual; it says...

 "When measuring Valve 1 Voltage, More than AC 90V? If "NO" then check "Thermostat High Limit Safety"  If "YES" proceed to check for the Igniter operating. If Igniter works check Valve 2"

My voltage is lower than 90 Volts on valve 1, but I'm not sure which thermostat they consider the "High Limit Safety" I've changed them all.

Next test...
" When measuring Valve 2 Voltage, value is more than AC 90V? (10 seconds after igniter goes off) If 'YES" then check gas connection / supply. If "NO" then check terminal resistance on valve 1 and 2."

"If resistance is more than 1.5K~2.5K Ohm then change the gas valve."
Both of mine read normal.

LG2532W

[JWWebster]

Check your gas connection.

[Al Capone]

Hi dus10

Please be sure to read, Posting Basics - Starting a New Topic.

Note were it says towards the bottom.

Please do not ask your own question in a topic.
In other words, please don't hijack the topic and make it yours.
Start your own topic and reference the other topic related to your issue.

I have made your reply into a new topic.

What is the model number of your LG dryer?

Thanks for posting your questions.

[dus10]

Oops sorry, didn't read that part.
My dryer is a LG2532W (gas)

I think I fixed it...  I swapped back to the old High Limit Thermostat and it seems to be working now. Originally it was the manual reset thermostat that was bad but I figured I better replace them both so I did. Turns out the new high limit thermostat that I bought (auto reset) was bad; so put the old one back in and it seems to be cured. Fingeres crossed. Now the odd thing, for anyone else that may have this problem, is that the new high limit thermostat that I bought tested okay. Of course I didn't have an accurate way to heat it to a specific temp. to test when it opened and closed, I just used my stove. But it would open and close okay, but I think it was opening prematurely and causing the gas valve to shut off the flame. When I swapped back to my old one, it worked fine and the flame stayed on. Just to clarify this is the auto reset thermostat on the top right side of the flame Funnel.

[Al Capone]

Oops sorry, didn't read that part.

No problem, 

Glad to hear you got it working again.

Thanks for the update. 

[dus10]

Nope, not fixed yet...  worked once, now won't ignite at all.

I checked the voltage going into Valve 1 and it's only 50-60 volts.

Voltage going into valve 2 is below 90 volts like its supposed to be.

But now when I check the impedence on Valve 2 itself  it jumps around from aprox 1900 ohm to infinite, like it's sometimes working and sometimes not. Is that possible? I figured electronic components were either working or not.

Valve 1 reads normal impedence.

So two things have me concerned... 1.) the fact that I'm only getting 50-60 volts to the plug for Valve 1.


and 2.) The impedence on Valve 2 is jumping from good to bad.


So what would cause the voltage drop to the Valve 1 plug?