vgic3054bss Viking Range - only 3 months old

[chilicasa@hotmai]

Hi chilicasa,

If you would like you can email me the video and I will upload it to our server or our youtube channel and then post it here for everyone else to view.

Thank you for posting your questions.

Thanks John for your understanding.
I just sent you an email as well.
Seems Hotmail wont allow a file that large so I tried again to put it up on youtube and since I now have an account... it worked
I titled it Viking Gas Range with problems.
Special note to repairman... I wasnt trying to piss you off and make you feel jaded. Not sure why I got the comments I did. And I do not want to discuss it any further. I thank you for your assistance up to that point. I hope you have a GREAT day and maybe you should back off on the double serving of Cherios in the morning. GREAT website! and thanks to you all.

[AJ]

Here is chilicasa video of his Viking range he is having problems with.

What do you guys think after seeing the video?

[RegUS_PatOff]

Only one Burner should Spark for each Burner Control.
Separate inputs on Spark Module = separate Spark Output for specified Burner.

[Repair-man]

Cherios indeed... har-de-har-har

After all this, including the video which was enjoyable enough, do you get a glimmer that the module is bad now?  John's link to AP  Wagner parts should allow you to purchase one in Canada and get your range going properly again. It's just a shame it took this long to get the point across...

[JWWebster]

Dude that is a weak spark module no doubt. From the way I take it the spark module on this stove works like points on a car. As each knob is turned the grounding makes that ignitor toss sparks from the module. With the module being weak you don't get enough spark.Its almost as if you had a bad coil on a lawn mower except it is a spark module instead of a coil. Works on the same princible though.

[Repair-man]

JW, if you had Viking manuals all along, how come you did not offer one  about 3 pages ago when it would have helped out?  This gent needs it worse than I do

[AJ]

do you get a glimmer that the module is bad now?

I'm not familiar with Viking model numbers. After searching for the part at a number of different places using the model number and coming up empty I started to wonder if it was a good model number.

Then I googled the model number and found that AJ Madison sells that same model range.

http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/VGIC3054BSS.html

Would there be a part number on the old Viking part?

[chilicasa@hotmai]

Thank you all for your help.
I will order a module

[AJ]

Did you find a part number?

If so please post it here.

[chilicasa@hotmai]

Did you find a part number?

If so please post it here.

I am having the same problem as you.
I have found that model VGIC3054BSS has been discontinued and replaced by VGIC3064BSS
What I just found was interesting so I thought I would post it for you all. Maybe right... maybe wrong... just another technicians thoughts.
If you look closely at a finger of burner flame you will see that it is clearly made up of three separate elements:
1. Inner fuel rich cone
2. Ionized blue outer cone with current carrying capabilities
3. Outer air rich mantle.
When gas combined with air, burned energy is released in the form of heat and light. When the gas / air mixture is controlled, the outer blue cone will actually carry electrical current similar to a wire.
If we place a metal probe into this “Ionized Plume” and apply a voltage between it and the burner, current will flow. An important characteristic of a burner/flame/electrode assembly is its ability to mainly pass current in one direction. It behaves as a one way valve or rectifier.
Flame rectification systems make use of this directional characteristic when detecting a good flame to distinguish it from leakage currents that can arise due to moisture contamination, soiled igniter tip, poorly grounded burner spreader ring / burner head, cracked igniter insulation or poor house ground.
An AC voltage is applied to the electrode from the spark module and the resultant current flow which is greater in one direction than the other, is electronically detected. This current is very small, about one microamp.



The accurate placing of the electrode in the flame is important. This igniter tip needs to be perfectly located in the ionized outer blue cone to effectively send and then detect current flow. To break it down further, the spark module acts as a simple capacitor. It saves voltage like a sponge until it can hold no more. It will save and release this voltage approximately 3 times per second. When the voltage is released it follows the spark wire until reaches the spark electrode tip. The built up voltage wants to leave the tip and move to the point of least resistance. In a healthy situation this will be the burner. From the burner the voltage flow will pass through the burner head, burner tube, chassis and to ground. An interruption of this current path will cause the spark system to misbehave.

[chilicasa@hotmai]

The flame also plays a very important role in this process. Because the flame is conductive, it allows the voltage to pass through its body like a bridge to the burner. This bridge allows the built up spark voltage to bleed off of the igniter tip and move to ground more easily. The resultant ionized flame bridge has now become the path of least resistance for the spark to take across the gap between the spark electrode and the burner body.
By bleeding off the buildup of voltage we stop the spark from occurring. The spark is, in effect, still there, you just canʼt see it.



Possible Causes of Continuous Sparking:



Defective spark wires.



Continuous high heat can cause spark wires to degrade. Use volt/ohm meter to determine continuity of spark wires. Look for obvious cuts/abrasions or pinch points. A defective wire can allow spark voltage to transfer through insulation to ground prior to reaching spark electrode. Under normal circumstances all igniters fire together and if the burner in question has found an easier ground path the spark will go there. It will not, however, in most cases have found a continuous ground path such as what the flame would provide under normal circumstances. This will cause the spark module to re-ignite.



Cracked Ceramic Spark Electrode


Itʼs important to determine whether the spark electrode is faulty. Physical impacts and high heat can cause the ceramic post to fracture or crack. If this occurs the spark can shoot through the ceramic insulation and will normally go to ground on the burner head rather than through the flame
/burner.



Faulty Burner Grounding


From the spark electrode / burner to earth ground it is important that you have a strong connection. This can be interrupted in many different ways.


1. Soiled spark electrode
2. Soiled burner
3. Soiled burner head
4. Corrosion between the burner head and burner tube.
Normally this will appear as a brownish stain and can be easily cleaned with a small wire brush.




Any of these conditions can interrupt current flow. It is recommended frequent cleaning with a stiff plastic or soft wire bristle brush using pure alcohol or a window cleaning solution that contains alcohol. It is commonly thought that simple igniter cleaning is enough, it is not. You have to clean all three conductive components to ensure good continuity. A small amount of grease or oil can act as an insulator and prevent the spark from flowing properly.


It is common to find one or a series of burners that will only spark occasionally. As with the previously described scenarios check all possible ground faults. This is the number one cause of erratic sparking, not spark modules as is more commonly thought. If you have made certain thatyou have a strong flame current / flame placement / solid ground, replace spark module.

[AJ]

chilicasa,

I had to split your last reply into two different ones. For some reason it was to much for one post and was just showing a blank post.

[chilicasa@hotmai]

chilicasa,

I had to split your last reply into two different ones. For some reason it was to much for one post and was just showing a blank post.

Thanks
Just thought it was interesting and wanted to share it with the guys who just helped me.
Still looking for the damn part #
Viking dealer is 10 hours away and closed for the day

[RegUS_PatOff]

part # PA020041

click on picture  $ 106




click on picture  $ 54
(also fits models not listed)


Whirlpool & Maytag also use this module

I can't find their part number, but if you take it to a Whirlpool / Maytag Parts dealer, they should have one.

[chilicasa@hotmai]

part # PA020041

Thanks for the update!
I thought I would go back again to see if there were any more comments and there you were with more info.
I spoke with the guys at allvikingparts.com
They gave me a different number for my range but you put me in the right direction.
I have ordered PA020047 module and PA020028 ingnitors for spares.
Did you know that they have only been online for just two days?
They were very impressed that you recommended them.
Enjoy the beer!Terry