Author Topic: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range  (Read 9802 times)

Offline lemmy

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2009, 09:57:21 PM »
The gas is on at the house because the fireplace and furnace work fine.  Also, I pulled the stove out tonight and noticed the gas valve is on.  I noticed the two ignitors on the right are working (I can see a strong spark), but the two on the left are not.  I smell no gas. Once I might have smelled just a bit.  Then I finally got the right front to light but the flame was very very low and never varied when i moved the dial from high to low. After a minute or so, it went out.   It is like there is some gas flow problem to the cooktop.


Offline lemmy

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2009, 08:52:00 AM »
Everything seems to be working now. 

I don't think I was clear earlier, but this model is an electric convection oven, with a gas cooktop. 

Anyway, I took out the control board to look for any bad capacitors or chips that looked damaged and it looked fine.  I also unplugged the connectors to the ignitor module for the cooktop and plugged it back up.  when I powered the range up, the error code was gone from the display and the oven worked.  Also, all 4 ignitors were working instead of just the two on the right.  But I still had a gas flow problem.  I was going to check to see if there was gas flow coming in to the range.  So I turned off the gas valve behind the stove and tried to remove the flexible hose from the regulator but it wouldn't budge.  When I turned the gas valve back on, suddenly there was plenty of gas coming out and the cooktop works fine.   I can't think of why it would work before when I didn't do anything but shut off the valve and then open up the valve.  I traced the gas line and none of it was pinched or anything.  Any ideas?  Could the regulator be messing up? 

Also, I can't seem to find any of the Frigidaire manuals that are even close the to range I have.  I have looked at the electric freestanding manuals but none of them resemble mine at all.  I think mine is about 10 years old. 

Offline Repair-man

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2009, 05:41:17 PM »
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
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Offline lemmy

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2009, 11:44:02 AM »
Thanks. That is not exactly like mine, but closer than the other manuals on here. 

However I showed up yesterday and the gas wasn't working again.  Since all burners either work or don't work and when not working there is no gas coming out, I am thinking it is the regulator.  I turned off the gas at the back of the range and tried to remove the flexible hose from the stove but couldn't get it off. 



I am putting one wrench on the silver nut to support and the other on the brass nut on the end of the flexible hose and it won't budge.  I was under the impression that these are not supposed to be that tight. 

Also, the electronic controller has the F1 once again.  I have read this is common and that even with a new $300 board, it often comes back again.  I read on one forum that a bad connection on the ribbon cable the connects the keypad to the board is what causes this problem.  Have you ever heard that? 

Offline lemmy

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #14 on: August 29, 2009, 11:44:39 AM »
Thanks. That is not exactly like mine, but closer than the other manuals on here. 

However I showed up yesterday and the gas wasn't working again.  Since all burners either work or don't work at the same time and when not working there is no gas coming out, I am thinking it is the regulator.  I turned off the gas at the back of the range and tried to remove the flexible hose from the stove but couldn't get it off. 



I am putting one wrench on the silver nut to support and the other on the brass nut on the end of the flexible hose and it won't budge.  I was under the impression that these are not supposed to be that tight. 

Also, the electronic controller has the F1 once again.  I have read this is common and that even with a new $300 board, it often comes back again.  I read on one forum that a bad connection on the ribbon cable the connects the keypad to the board is what causes this problem.  Have you ever heard that? 

Offline Repair-man

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2009, 12:08:37 PM »
Check that regulator to see if there is a small lever on one end which must be open. Some have this device to shut off gas to the burners.
"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
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Offline lemmy

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #16 on: August 31, 2009, 12:11:28 PM »
Thanks for your help.  I finally got all of the burners working well.  Unfortunately no matter what I do, I can't get the F1 to go away on the electronic controller.  I will probably just have to end up getting a new range.   I am convinced it is either the keypad going bad or just the ribbon cable from the keypad not making good connection on the electronic board, but those are both very expensive parts. 

Offline Repair-man

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #17 on: August 31, 2009, 03:28:15 PM »
What did you do to solve the burner problem??

The clock for this unit is $279, which to me is a lot cheaper than a $1100 range.

"It's only expensive if someone else fixes it for you" -
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Offline lemmy

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2009, 10:11:20 AM »
What had happened with the gas is that when I was first checking it out, we had not closed yet.  I checked that the gas was on and it was...and the hot water was working.  I got all of the eyes and ignitors working.  Then two days later it wasn't working.  And the water was still hot.  But when I took off the hose and no gas was coming out, I went outside and somebody (utility company? ) had turned off the gas.  The water was still hot because of the insulation in the water heater, but of course it was out too.  Turned the gas on and everything is working fine there.

Does that price include the keypad AND the electronic board?  Ours is white so it is a little more expensive for some reason.  I have just read too many stories of people having the F1 and then getting a new board and 6 months later it happens again.   I am convinced it is either the keypad or the ribbon cable/connector interface.  I may just try soldering wires direction from the keypad to the controller board to see if this helps.  I have nothing to lose at this point.  The oven light relay had two bad solder joints which were preventing the lights from working.  I reflowed the solder on those two locations and the lights work fine now.

Offline Washaman

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Re: Kenmore 790 Series Slide In Range
« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2009, 10:39:49 AM »
Ahah! Always check the simplest/cheapest things first. O0

 

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