Maytag washer spin noise

[idler]

This top loading washer (model A206) is 39 years old - but it still seems a lot better than new ones I've looked at, so would like to keep it going.
At the start of the spin cycle, for a minute or so, there is a loud thumping sound.  
If I lift the lid and move the tub by hand, I hear a loud creaking / groaning noise.
When I remove the front panel, I see the corners of the damper pads poking out, and the creak / groan is coming from the damper pads when I move the tub side to side - even the slightest such motion makes a pretty good noise.
Nothing seems loose or out of place as I nose around.

So, I'm thinking that the damper pads should be replaced, but wonder if I have more to worry about than just damper pads: bearings for example.

Questions:
 - what are the symptoms that worn out damper pads produce ?
 - is there an easy way to insert some lubrication onto the damper pads (for testing) ?
 - if it's not the damper pads that are responsible for my thumping noises, is the other choice the tub bearings ?  And if so, are they replaceable on this model ?

thanks ... any suggestions for diagnosis are sure appreciated

Model A206

[idler]

I posted this plea for advice 3 months ago , and am again thinking about dealing with the problem... I'm hoping it was just bad luck that no advice was offered up then, maybe today ? thanks.

This top loading washer (model A206) is 39 years old - but it still seems a lot better than new ones I've looked at, so would like to keep it going.
At the start of the spin cycle, for a minute or so, there is a loud thumping sound. 
If I lift the lid and move the tub by hand, I hear a loud creaking / groaning noise.
When I remove the front panel, I see the corners of the damper pads poking out, and the creak / groan is coming from the damper pads when I move the tub side to side - even the slightest such motion makes a pretty good noise.
Nothing seems loose or out of place as I nose around.

So, I'm thinking that the damper pads should be replaced, but wonder if I have more to worry about than just damper pads: bearings for example.

Questions:
 - what are the symptoms that worn out damper pads produce ?
 - is there an easy way to insert some lubrication onto the damper pads (for testing) ?
 - if it's not the damper pads that are responsible for my thumping noises, is the other choice the tub bearings ?  And if so, are they replaceable on this model ?

thanks ... any suggestions for diagnosis are sure appreciated.

[Repair-man]

Try a new set of tub bearings and a new boot stem and seal kit. You'll need the spanner wrench to do these repairs also.

The damper pads can be replaced underneath but they must be scraped off and reglued down...fun job.

[idler]

Repair-man:
 Thanks for the quick reply and links to parts ... much appreciated.
  I'm thinking that maybe I'm kidding myself in trying to maintain an antique. I thought if it was just damper pads I could try that with minor expense and disruption to the laundry routine - but the bearings sound like a major undertaking.

 If I could only buy an exact replacement, I'd do it now but it appears that the new machines are not well made.  If you had to replace a plain jane top loader, is there a manufacturer that you'd prefer ?
 Thanks.

 

Try a new set of tub bearings and a new boot stem and seal kit. You'll need the spanner wrench to do these repairs also.

The damper pads can be replaced underneath but they must be scraped off and reglued down...fun job.

[Repair-man]

If it were my machine, I would do what it takes to keep it running. Not only was this the most dependable product Maytag ever made, but the  parts are fairly inexpensive compared to other brands. This repair would  give you another 15 years or more when combined with a new set of belts. Since the repair manual is available here and so are the parts, you would be far better off than replacing it with a cheaply made product as we see today. There  are no "reliable" brands any longer, sadly enough. You can only hope to buy a simple machine with no frils if you want less trouble down the road. Avoid Euro and Asian brands due to logistics issues and higher SCRs (Service Call Ratios)

[idler]

Repair-man:
  Thanks for the advice ... it's discouraging to witness the deterioration in quality of so many products.
  I will make the effort to repair.  Step 1 is to get the manual - but I don't see one that directly applies to the A206 - could you recommend one that would be close ?
  Also, I thought I'd start with removing the impeller.  This is something I used to do to periodically to clean the scum from under it.  My recall is that I just squeezed my fingers under the bottom skirt and pulled - and the impeller slid off the splined shaft (I don't remember there being any screws holding the impeller to the shaft, and don't see any now).  In trying to do that now, I fail because I'm weaker or the impeller has seized to the shaft with water / detergent deposits over the years.  To free it up, I'm thinking of half filling the tub and adding a good slug of vinegar to dissolve the deposits ...  maybe you have a smarter way ?
  Anyway, I'm going to prepare to do the overhaul, but won't get to it until there's a "no laundry " window (when my wife's away   - but will let you know how it works out - or more likely seek more guidance.

thanks again.

[Repair-man]

Some of the Dependable Care machines had a blue agitator that was pressure-fitted to the splines and all you did was yank it up. If it has become hard to remove, here's what I do:

Fill the machine with the hottest water on the normal washer. As it fills, pour 1 gallon of white vinegar into the tub along with a cup of Cascade Dishwasher powder.. Allow the washer to run the whole cycle. You will observe the water turning from clear to a dingy gray-brown as the various residues are melted away and suspended. This usually removes the grime holding the agitator to the spline fairly well, but there is another technique that works well if it won't lift off. Take a good leather belt and slip it under the base of the agitator bell until it is centered as close to the shaft as possible. Next take either end of the belt in both hands and yank sharply upward, holding your face to one side in case it comes up violently. This usally does the trick 90% of the time.

Regarding the manual, here it is: Maytag Dependable Care Washer Manual. Don't worry if the model is not mentioned, it is the same mechanical design as it was 45 years ago and is a great reference for all the details you will need.
Good luck!

[apprich]

You can replace the washer snubber pads by placing shord boards under the tranny pulley and a heavy item on top of the washer. This will lift the tranny up sufficiently to replace them.

[Repair-man]

You can replace the washer snubber pads by placing shord boards under the tranny pulley and a heavy item on top of the washer. This will lift the tranny up sufficiently to replace them.

Yeah, that's mentioned in the manual. Personally, I like to pull the whole  tub/transmission assy out of the way to make life simple. It only takes a couple of minutes to loosen the drain hose, air line and springs. The springs come off with a little help from some switchboxes, and voila, it lifts out and can be placed on the floor out of the way. Gives you lots of room to replace those pads from an upright aspect.

[idler]

Repair-man:
 Well I finally got to it.  I was unable to do the switchbox method.  even when I pushed the top of the tub all the way to the cabinet wall, the springs didn't extend enough to get anything much in between the coils of the spring.  I also tried sitting the main pulley on a block of wood but there was almost no lift - and I didn't really like the idea of stressing the transmission so didn't add weight etc..   I'm also getting weak in my old age, sigh.
 Anyway, I was able to lift the tub about 1/8" using blocks of wood on the side of the tub braces - this was enough to remove the load from the damper pads and open an access gap.  I then worked a generous amount of teflon/silicone grease in on top of the remains of the damper pads by squeezing the grease along the edges and then working it into the crevice with a thin piece of fiberglass strapping tape.  The noise was greatly reduced - from loud thumping to a mellow reverberation for a minute or two on spin - not perfect but tolerable and a big improvement.
 I'm sure this will make you roll your eyes, but just in case you still visit this forum and wanted a laugh ...
 Your advice was much appreciated.  Happy New Year.

[Repair-man]

Glad you got it fixed....and I did not roll my eyes but once 

A very happy and safe new year to you as well!

VR