Kitchenaid Washer won't spin/agitate

[sofasurfer]

Kitchenaid washing machine KAWE850VAL1. It wasn't agitating or spinning. I could hear the motor run. I opened it up and found the coupler broken. I replaced the coupler and put everthing back together.

Now the motor is not running but I can hear it humming. I figure that what happened is that the transmission froze up and this is what caused the coupler to break. So I took it all apart again and sure enough, where the motor couples to the transmission, I am not able to turn the transmission shaft.

I decided I would put it back together until I can learn more about fixing it. I reattached the motor and pump and put the cabinet back into place. I thought, what the heck, I'll just try it one more time. I put it into the spin cycle and pulled the knob out. IT STARTED TO SPIN. I let it spin a few more seconds and it was spinning good. I shut it off and then pushed it back into postion against the wall. Then I put it back into the spin cycle and pulled the knob out. I WON"T SPIN AGAIN!!!! I can hear the motor humming. It does fill with water, although I only let a few cups of water to enter machine.

What do you think is going on? Is there shift linkage that could be screwed up. Cause it seems that I should be able to turn the transmission shaft by hand, but I do not know that for sure. What would cause it to not spin or agitate, then be ok when I messed with it, and then not spin again after I moved it?

[whirlpooltech]

You maybe able to turn the transmission by hand to see it agitate, but you will not be able to turn it by hand to see it spin. The brake will be holding it from spinning.

If I thought there was a problem with the transmission I would remove it from the washer.
With it removed from the washer you should be able to turn it one way and watch the shaft agitate. Then turn it the other way to watch the clutch spin around.


Here is the direct drive service manual. See if it's any help.

http://appliancejunk.com/directdrivemanual.pdf

Transmission photo gallery.

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?action=gallery;cat=22

[whirlpooltech]

Also open the washer lid and take a close look at the holes in the tub.
I have see were a nail will get caught in one of the holes and just the head keeps it from going through.

The other end of the nail will dig into the outer plastic tub keeping it from spinning.

Also feel around the top of the two tubs to make sure a sock or something is not caught in between the two tubs.

Just a thought...

[JWWebster]

The first one of them couplings I replaced I took a hammer and drove them on too far making the dang coupling jam against the transmission and motor binding up everything. Maybe you need to check that.

[whirlpooltech]

JW brings up a good point there.
The coupler should be tapped on just so the shaft is flush with the front of the coupler.

[sofasurfer]

I did tap the coupler on till the shaft was flush with the front edge of the coupler. But this sounds like the only thing that makes sense. The motor was running before I fixed it (the coupling).
When I put the new coupling on I had to use a socket extension and hammer to get the coupler on. It was a VERY tight fit.
I know I will have a hell of a time getting the coupler off again. Any suggestions? I have a wheel puller. Is that a proper tool?

[sofasurfer]

O, also, thanks for the link to the washer manual. A very good book. Thanks.

[JWWebster]

The coupling ought to come off easily. I do not think a wheel puller is ness. try and run the motor while it is sitting on the floor by it self. Turn the tranny by hand. Inspect the pump for obstacles.

[sofasurfer]

I put an "L" shaped bar into the area where the coupler is and put a vice grip on it. I was able to turtn it counter-clockwise just a tiny bit (1/4" or so before I ran out of room because of my bad tool design). It was difficult to turn. I will need to find a more suitable method of gripping the coupler to turn it.

The on-line repair manual says to jumper the grey and violet wires to run the washer without the cabinet attached. However, my wasyer has 3 wires whereas the manual shows 2. Do I still jumper grey and violet, are whatever looks like them (a little color-blind). I think the other wire is red.

They say that I should be able to turn the tranny by hand in one direction but not the other. So are we saying that the motor has enough torque at startup to turn the tranny in either direction? My point is, just because I can't turn it by hand is that a reason to automatically assume the tranny is bad?

Sorry for all the questions.

[sofasurfer]

When I find out how, I will pull the couple off the shaft a little to see if that helps.

[MajorApp]

Pry on each side of the coupler with a flat blade screwdriver a little at a time. It should come off

[JWWebster]

The lidswitch quick connect has 3 wires as you said. But one of them is green and is a chassis ground wire. Leave it out. Connect your jumper to the other 2 wires and she will run with the case off.