Whirlpool washing machine leaking grease into tub

[ryanvm]

Hi. We have a Whirlpool washing machine (LSQ8220HQ0) that is about 5 years old. Just last night it started leaking an awful looking green/brown greasy substance from some ports on the agitator. This has in turn flung onto the inside of the tub during the spin cycle. Attached are some pics of the phenomenon.

Also, I've noticed the machine also has a trace of a ''grindy'', metal-on-metal sound when it begins engaging for the spin cycle.

Any ideas on what this could be? I'm fairly handy with a wrench - is this something I could replace myself? Is it even worth repairing?

Thanks so much.

[Repair-man]

You can replace the basket drive/brake tube assembly and also the clutch which is now ground into oblivion

Both are an easy fix, however you'll need to also purchase the spanner wrench designed to remove the tub nut, part # TB123A

If you look at the direct drive washer manual on this forum, you'll get an idea of how everything's put together and if it's within your realm of expertise.

L-55 Whirlpool Made Direct Drive Washer Service Repair Manual

To avoid damage lik this in the future:
1. Don't overload
2. Don't turn the water level down past the highest setting (trust me on this)

Whirlpool Washer Clutch Kit Part # 285785


Whirlpool Washer Basket Drive Tube Assembly Part # 285792

[RAH52]

Repair-man do you suggest whirlpool direct driver washers should only wash on full water setting ? Is this because people tend to overload them ?

[JWWebster]

18 pounds dry weight is the maximum.
No rugs or comforters.
Never set the water level below
maximum because one day some of your children are gonna load that mutha up and let er fly on the low water setting and BOOM there goes another coupling. Been there Done that.

[Repair-man]

Repair-man do you suggest whirlpool direct driver washers should only wash on full water setting ? Is this because people tend to overload them ?

I recommend this to avoid excess pressure on the agitator shaft and the shaft seal which is  built into the spin tube. The tube is pumped full of brown grease at the factory, so any seepage thru the upper sesal will cause greasy buildup inside the tub. At the same time, water is allowed to permeate the  lower brake and clutch bands, causing damage there as well.

Having a higher water level reduces the load on the agitator base, rather than lowering the water level and have the clothes pressing against the base and shaft as the agitator rotates. This also allows the  clothes  to circulate freely and get the full benefit of the Vari-Flex agitator. When too low a water level is used, the extra pressure created on the agitator causes the top seal to wear out  prematurely.

Overloading makes it worse, but is not the primary cause of upper seal failure, only coupling, clutch and brake failure.

[JWWebster]

Jimbo would you say that upper seal leaking was very common? I have never seen it.

[Repair-man]

It's not that common, but usually in cases where too low a water level was used. I see it in 1 out of 20 clutch  and brake failures.