LG washer has shut down, no power

[TechnicianBrian]

Just my two cents worth. I would find the missing voltage to the board before replacing random parts.  Verify voltage into the main board on the white connector between pins one and three from the filter board.  If you have voltage, then I would suggest removing all the connectors to the main board, except the one from the filter board, and those going to the display board and see if the display comes on.  I suspect you have a short somewhere in the unit that is causing the main board to shut down to protect itself.  If that works, you can plug each connector back in until you find the one that shuts it off again.  If you don't have power when the connectors are removed, the board has failed, and then it would be time to check each component to the main board for a short circuit. 

[Golfnut]

Just my two cents worth. I would find the missing voltage to the board before replacing random parts.  Verify voltage into the main board on the white connector between pins one and three from the filter board.  If you have voltage, then I would suggest removing all the connectors to the main board, except the one from the filter board, and those going to the display board and see if the display comes on.  I suspect you have a short somewhere in the unit that is causing the main board to shut down to protect itself.  If that works, you can plug each connector back in until you find the one that shuts it off again.  If you don't have power when the connectors are removed, the board has failed, and then it would be time to check each component to the main board for a short circuit. 

Thanks.  I did check power into the main board from filter.  I get 120v between 1 and 2 and 2 and 3 on the outbound connector from filter.  2 is green/ground.  No voltage across 1 and 3.  Again, voltage between 1 and any ground/2 is 120v.  Sam with 2 and 3.  So power is getting to the board.  Am I missing something?  LED is still not on.  I also get operating power to power switch on display.  This, I'm told by LG, is 120v.  This is with all other plugs pullled out of the main board.

[RegUS_PatOff]

If your wall outlet is wired correctly:

1 Blue connects to (White) should be Neutral
2 (Green) is Ground
3 Brown connects to (Black) is Hot

120v between 3 & 1
120v between 3 & 2

[Golfnut]

If your wall outlet is wired correctly:

1 Blue connects to (White) should be Neutral
2 (Green) is Ground
3 Brown connects to (Black) is Hot

120v between 3 & 1
120v between 3 & 2


Thanks.  I'm not sure what is wrong here.  This is the set-up.

From wall to plug....Plug into machine into Filter, then Filter into Main Board

1 white to blue (filter)
2 green to grd 
3 black to brown (filter)

120V between 1 and 2
120V between 2 and 3
0V    between 1 and 3

[Golfnut]

If your wall outlet is wired correctly:

1 Blue connects to (White) should be Neutral
2 (Green) is Ground
3 Brown connects to (Black) is Hot

120v between 3 & 1
120v between 3 & 2

Thanks.  I'm not sure what is wrong here.  This is the set-up.

From wall to plug....Plug into machine into Filter, then Filter into Main Board

1 white to blue (filter)
2 green to grd 
3 black to brown (filter)

120V between 1 and 2
120V between 2 and 3
0V    between 1 and 3

[RegUS_PatOff]

Thanks.  I'm not sure what is wrong here.  This is the set-up.

From wall to plug....Plug into machine into Filter, then Filter into Main Board

1 white to blue (filter)
2 green to grd 
3 black to brown (filter)

120V between 1 and 2
120V between 2 and 3
0V    between 1 and 3

open Neutral somewhere...

How's the voltages at the wall outlet ?

[Golfnut]

Thanks.  I'm not sure what is wrong here.  This is the set-up.

From wall to plug....Plug into machine into Filter, then Filter into Main Board

1 white to blue (filter)
2 green to grd 
3 black to brown (filter)

120V between 1 and 2
120V between 2 and 3
0V    between 1 and 3

open Neutral somewhere...

How's the voltages at the wall outlet ?

Thanks...
 

G to neutral (T slot)---------------0 volts
G to hot-------------------------------120 volts
 Hot to T slot------------------------120 volts

[Golfnut]

Power cord was bad....Replaced it, powered up machine.  Now, on to next set of problems.   QC test revealed a few things..

1) No spining at all, pulled rotar, checked connections and resistance, ok w/i tolerance
2) Both drain and recirc pumps have water freq on QC test but I cannot hear any pumping, ...pulled apart both motors, muck in drain, recirc seems ok, resistance with both is w/i limits, also power both pump motors with test 120Vac and both turn
3) Replaced water level switch assembly, water pressure readings were low, ..., getting proper readings now
4) Replaced main control board

in QC mode, test seems to work on based on display readings

However, actual runs result in OE error.  I think the drain pump or connections, or controls are not working.  I ran the test mode and pulled the drain filer and could not see or hear or feel either empeller on drain or recirc motor turning....leads me to believe a wiring or control problem.   I seem to be getting 120V from the main board for these pumps.  Any suggestions before ordering more parts???

[RegUS_PatOff]

Is there 120v across the Pumps ?

Pump common also connects to Water Inlet Valves common
do they work?

also connects thru the Door Switch

[Golfnut]

Is there 120v across the Pumps ?

Pump common also connects to Water Inlet Valves common
do they work?

also connects thru the Door Switch

I need to check for 120V across both pumps.  I have to rotate machine face down to get acess, but will do that later today.  I should get 120V across both pumps wth machine on and power up the machine?  What sends signal to turn off and on to pumps?  Is that basically, 120V on or 120V off from the main board?  Does it not depend upon what cycle is running?

The Water Inlet Valves are working.  They QC test out ok.