Slow running fan

[shovel52]

This spring when I turned my window  unit on it was dead. I cleaned the terminals of the
capacitor which is a 40 for the compressor and a 5 for the fan and tried it again,
and it did come on but the fan is running slow. It doesn't appear to be running warm or making any type of noise and the motor is not stiff. I have tried 3 different 5 micro farad caps on the fan but none make any difference. Also the fan has 3 speeds and switching the control knob makes no difference in the speed. I don't think I have any wires switched. The fan has a brown and red wire coming from the motor and i have those going to the 5 micro farad cap. the compressor has a red and white going to the 40, which is in the same can.
The brown from the fan and white from the compressor  share the same common terminal on the can. Also the motor seems to be running backwards. Shouldn't the blades blow through the condenser coil and out the back? It is not, it sucks air in. Anyone?

Model ar1800xw0

[Icehouse]

The fan is blowing correctly, however sounds like a voltage problem. The capacitor is like giving it a "push" to get going.

[jumptrout51]

Both brown wires from the fan motor should go to the 5 mfd cap.
The red wire from the fan could go to the common on the 40 mfd cap.
The other wires from the fan motor would go to the speed control.
I am sure RM will correct me.

[JWWebster]

Can you post any pictures?

[Repair-man]

Both brown wires from the fan motor should go to the 5 mfd cap.
The red wire from the fan could go to the common on the 40 mfd cap.
The other wires from the fan motor would go to the speed control.
I am sure RM will correct me.

Yes, I am in a correcting mood
The red wire goes to the COM terminal on the capcitor, as does the L2 wire back to the  control panel. The brown wire goes on the capacitor terminal marked FAN. What this person is not telling you is that the other 3 wires, BLK, BLU, and ORG also connect to the back of the motor and go to the speed control.

The motor must turn such that the air is sucked in the side intakes and discharged thru the back away from the house. If it will not change speed or the direction is wrong, replace the motor. You should not separate the capacitors if possible, but get the proper 3-terminal one made for the unit!

For more info, see the following:

Tech Sheet for AR1800

[JWWebster]

You could remove the orange (lo speed) and blue (med speed) wires and put them where they wont short against anything and run it on high. If it speeds up then it probably is a bad switch. Jimbo is right the motor has a red wire for common(weird) and mounts on the dummy post of the fan switch along with L2.

[Icehouse]

  Another instance when manufacturer's fail to follow a standard wiring code, but again this from the same company that owns and uses the Brazilian Nightmare "Embraco". 

[Repair-man]

You could remove the orange (lo speed) and blue (med speed) wires and put them where they wont short against anything and run it on high. If it speeds up then it probably is a bad switch. Jimbo is right the motor has a red wire for common(weird) and mounts on the dummy post of the fan switch along with L2.

Or, you could just jumper the black wire from the motor to the L1 side where the cord feeds the selector switch. If the fan does run on high speed, the switch is bad.


Ice, a lot of these were also made with LG parts.

[Icehouse]

  I meant that they are not conforming to standard wiring color codes but they also use those garbage compressors.
Hey "Copeland" who always bragged about made in the USA now has them made in Poland 

[jumptrout51]

His explanation led me to believe he was using 2 caps not a dual cap.
He said he changed out the 5 mfd 3 times.
He also said he has 2 brown wires, which normally would be power in power out for a single cap.
And yes the red(com) wire would go to L2.
I could not find a diagram myself. Just giving info from logic of most systems.
I am with JW...send me a picture of this weirdo.

[Icehouse]

His explanation led me to believe he was using 2 caps not a dual cap.
He said he changed out the 5 mfd 3 times.
He also said he has 2 brown wires, which normally would be power in power out for a single cap.
And yes the red(com) wire would go to L2.
I could not find a diagram myself. Just giving info from logic of most systems.
I am with JW...send me a picture of this weirdo.

Oh you mean the Air Conditioner. 

[JWWebster]

Perhaps you would like to read my award winning "how to check a  window unit fan switch"
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/ask-the-sublime-one-a-question/charging-a-window-air-conditioning-unit/window-air-conditioner-woes/checking-a-window-unit-fan-switch

[Repair-man]

Perhaps you would like to read my award winning "how to check a  window unit fan switch"
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/ask-the-sublime-one-a-question/charging-a-window-air-conditioning-unit/window-air-conditioner-woes/checking-a-window-unit-fan-switch

I see you have not figured out how to make nice, short links yet...

[JWWebster]

I can barely use a PC let alone do the fancy stuff you do my friend. perhaps you could post the procedure to me and I might figure it out with my limited skills. I said I was an appliance whiz not a frigging PC genius, however I am not stubborn as to learning new thangs. Any tutoring you may volunteer to do is quite acceptable and appreciated.

[Repair-man]

I decided to write you some basic bb code instructions, JW. See the attached

And, I ain't no genius but it might take one for the average reader to decipher or remeber that long-assed url