Author Topic: In door ice maker not working...power questions  (Read 2011 times)

Offline sshippee

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In door ice maker not working...power questions
« on: May 06, 2009, 11:07:56 AM »
I have an in door ice maker in my Kitchenaid side by side fridge which is not making ice.  I have checked and the fill line is not frozen, i tried bypassing the tstate by jumpering the T and H.  Nothing happened.  The arm is stuck at approx 5 oclock.  When I checked voltage at the module by testing between L and N I had 0.2 volts.  When I checked voltage coming out of plug in the freezer there was 34 volts, which seemed strange.  Can anyone give me more info on the power to the unit?  What should it be (i was assuming 120)  I also was wondering if that ever changed based on the optics etc.  Any info people can give me I would appreciate it.  I was thining of replacing the whole unit, but don't want to waste the money if that isnt the issue.  Thanks~

Model Number: KSRP25FNS00 icon

Offline Al Capone

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Re: In door ice maker not working...power questions
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2009, 11:18:22 AM »
Hi sshippee,

Could you please post the model number of your refrigerator?

Thanks,
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Offline sshippee

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Re: In door ice maker not working...power questions
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2009, 12:45:26 PM »
KSRP25FNS00

Offline Al Capone

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Re: In door ice maker not working...power questions
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2009, 01:15:17 PM »
I updated the topic to include the model number information, thanks!
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Offline JWWebster

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Re: In door ice maker not working...power questions
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2009, 04:28:44 PM »
Check for voltage between T and H if you have 120 volts then the bi-metal is bad. If it's good you will have 0 volts. You can put a jumper between L and V and this will activate the watervalve.
Have you checked to see if an ice cube is jamming the ejector?
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Offline sshippee

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Re: In door ice maker not working...power questions
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2009, 07:42:41 AM »
No ice cubes jamming.  There actually isnt anything in there.  The arm keeps getting stopping at about 5 oclock.  I have ordered a whole new unit as I have tested the optics and everything is fine. I am thinking the only other think it could be is the wiring, but I did some continuity checks and everything looks ok there as well.

 

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