Is it my switch or heating element? 70 Series

[appliancentn]

We have a Kenmore Dryer, maybe 3 years old.
Ran all night last nite, never got hot.
Troubleshooting: switch or heating element or both?
Vent is not clogged.
How do I troubleshoot what I need to replace?
I'm obviously not a repairman, but I"m pretty handy around the house.
Thanks for you help in advance!
Mark

Model 110.66752500

[Al Capone]

Hi,

Could you post the full model number for us?
70 Series is not a model number.

If you open the dryer door and look around there should be a model/serial number tag with the model number information.

Thanks,

[appliancentn]

WOW! That was quick!
MOD
110.66752500

SER
MS5148854

Type
DWJR-ELE-2406028-FM54

Thanks!

[JWWebster]

This is a fairly simple machine to repair. Unplug the power and remove the rear dust cover. There you will find the heating element. It is on the right hand side. The heater in this model is held onto the frame by just 2 quarter inch screws. It would be very easy to remove it and give it a look see for a broken coil. if the heater is ok the most likely thing to be blown is the hi limit. Mounted above the heater at the top. It will blow if you have a blocked filter or filter housing so while you is at it remove that filter housing and wash it out. Get the stuff out the base of the blower also. The kit comes with the lower hi-limit(fat) and the upper one(smaller). Replace them both. The lower one is set to 250 and the upper one is at 300 and 100% of the time the small one blows. The lower one will get weak and fail to shut down and the smaller one will. If neither shuts down the heater then the skinny white duct fuse set at 350 degrees will blow and kill power to the drive motor via the door safety circuit, so if it blows the dryer will not run at all.

[Al Capone]

WOW! That was quick!
MOD
110.66752500

SER
MS5148854

Type
DWJR-ELE-2406028-FM54

Thanks!

I updated the topic to include the correct model number information.

Do what JW suggested and let us know what you find.

Thanks,

[appliancentn]

I have to work 12 hours today but will get on that this evening after I get home.
I cannot say how impressed I am with the speed and the detail of this reply.
 I will let you know for sure.
Thanks!
Mark

[appliancentn]

All the elements look ok. I think I can see the hi limit thing.
But, nothing "looks" unusual.

Do I just need to take this heating element off and take it into a parts store and see if they can test it or just replace it?

[appliancentn]

I thought I hd posted the pix here, but they didn't take.
 

 
 

[JWWebster]

If you cannot get a real meter you can make a homemade one. I have an old lamp cord I placed a light bulb in there on one side of that cord near where the plug is. I attached aligator clips to the wires so i can attach them to whatever part I want to test for continuity.  Connect the clips to the part and plug that redneck suicide test cord into the wall briefly to see if it makes a circuit and lights the bulb. Test all the safetys to see if any of them are blown or open. Any part you find that won't fire up dat bulb will be the problemo amigo.

[appliancentn]

 

 hmmmmmmmmmmmm

[JWWebster]

You could convert a flashlight into a continuity tester if you ain't comfy with alternating current. I will tell you the light bulb takes most of the zing out the equation but it will still bite ye if ye ain't careful. You wouldn't want to be barefoot and standin in a puddle of water when you do these tests.

[appliancentn]

I think I'm just gonna unplug all of those wires and take it to a repair shop and let them check it, then get a replacement part for what they diagnose.
That shouldn't cost me too much....reckon?

[JWWebster]

Good idea. They appreciate you doing so. They would rather make sure you get the right part than to wrangle with you over opened parts that did not fix the appliance. Electrical parts are not refundable in my neck of the woods and folks frown on the old I will buy this and see if it does the trick and if not I will return it routine. A reputable appliance parts store is not gonna have a ton of parts. They will have 2 or 3 unless these parts are fast movers like couplings and water pumps.

[RegUS_PatOff]

At Harbor Freight stores

Sometimes on sale or coupons (take on-line flyer ad to store)

click on picture $ 4.99 (sale $ 2.99)


click on picture $ 4.99 (sale $ 2.99)


Price must have went up

click on picture $ 4.99 (sale $ 2.99)

[appliancentn]

It's FIXED!!!
I took the heating element unit to the store, they found a bad element that I didn't see, part # 279838
I brought it home popped it in and I'm blowing hot air!
Well, the dryer is.....
I was worried thinking it might be the timer, but it's timing down now just fine. I started pondering the thought that maybe...just maybe...the timer broke, which made the dryer run all nite, which fried out the element.
But, as I said, the timer appears to be working now.
I want to thank you guys a lot for helping me here. I'm handy..just never done any repair on an appliance. Appears to be mostly plug n play stuff now. Well, except for that light turned meter thing that this dood here tried to rig me up with. I mighta tried it but I was afraid I'd have done more damage than was already done.
Thanks again boys!
Mark..in clean, dry underwear now.