Kenmore Refrigerator

[sparky823]

I have a Kenmore Ref. that runs constantly. I hear it stop and defrost once a day but then it never shuts off anymore. Today I haven't noticed if it has stopped for the defrost or not. It has been doing this for about a week and a half . I put a ref. thermometer in it yesterday to see how cold it was and the ref section is 40 degrees and the freezer section is 30 degrees. Today I set the freezer control for colder but it hasn't helped. It is still the same temp and constantly running.

I have had this ref. for nearly 26 years and it has never had a problem. What do you think it could be? Also if you think I would be better off buying another one what brand do you suggest? I know whatever I get will not last like this one has.

Thanks for your help.
Model# 106.8619612

BTW-I keep the coils underneath cleaned with a coil brush and then blow that out with an air tank so it gets out all the lint. I do this 2 times a year so I don't think it is because the coils are dirty. Plus the fan underneath is running and the fan in the freezer is running also. It makes no noises. Just runs all time.

[rickgburton]

First, look and see if there is any frost on the back wall of the freezer. Can you hear the fan working in the freezer? Check and see if the fan motor by yhe compressor is working.

[sparky823]

Yes the fan by the compressor is running--if it is the one on the side that blows air out the bottomfront of the grill?

The fan in the freezer is blowing like it always has. The only difference now is that used to sometimes when you opened the freezer there would be fog or smoke(cold air) blowing out and now you don't see the fog but it is blowing cold but only to 30 degrees(freezer)

By frost on the back wall of the freezer you mean on the inside of the freezer wall-right? There is no frost anywhere inside it. The ice in the bucket is still damp but it hasnt made any lately. Guess it isn't cold enough for the ice maker to work. To hear it running you would think nothing is wrong cause it sounds fine, it is just not cold enough any more.

Thanks

[rickgburton]

OK, Remove the back wall of the freezer. You'll probably have to remove the ice maker first. Look at the eveporator coils. There should be a thin layer of frost on all the coils from top to bottom. Another thing to check is the light in the freezer and in the refrigerator. Make sure they turn off when the door is closed.  A 40watt light bulb would give off enough heat to cause that problem. Feel the condensor coils under the refrigerator. They should feel warm. Let me know what you find.

[sparky823]

I haven't taken the back off the freezer yet but will later today but I did check the lights. They go off as you are closing the doors. I also took the front off and felt of the coils underneath. They are cool--maybe the layer on the top might have been barely warm. Seems like they felt like they were kinda vibrating when you put your hand on them. Not like shaking but just felt like something running. That fan under there is definately on as is the freezer fan. It is 40 degrees now in the freezer and the stuff is thawed/thawing. I can move that to a deep freeze though. I had been leaving it cause I have read it is better to have a freezer full than not?.
I will let you know about the back wall or can you make a diagnosis from this before I go to the trouble of taking all that out?.

[rickgburton]

You'll need to remove the back. From what you've told me so far, it sounds like you might have a sealed system issue. Possibly a refrigerant leak but most likley a restriction. It could be a defrost problem, but the only way to know is to check the condition of the evaporator.

[sparky823]

I took the back and the bottom out of the freezer today. It had a small spot of ice on the right hand side(looking in freezer) bottom. The copper line that is under the bottom tray that goes to the ref. front was coated frozen and then on the back coils was only a small spot in that right hand corner on about 2 loops of the condensor that was coated with ice. I used a hair dryer and thawed it all out and washed it out and put it back together. Turned it back on and it sounded like the comp came on. This was about 6 or 630PM and I checked the temp in the freezer just a few minutes ago and it was 60 degrees although the air was cooler now than when I first started it back up. You can hear behind that panel in the freezer it is making a sound like a sizzling sound if that is a way to describe it. Any ideas what it is? You mentioned a restiction--what is restricted and how could that happen?
Thanks again for the help.

Meant to say also that the coils on the condensor in the freezer was perfectly clean all over other-no ice or anything except for that corner spot.

[rickgburton]

It sounds like there is something wrong with the sealed system. It could be any number of things, such as a refrigerant leak, a restriction in the cap tube, or even the compressor running inefficient. Either way, all expencive repairs. I wouldn't recomend putting much money into a 26 year old refrigerator.

[sparky823]

Thanks for the help.

Today it has the little spot of frost/ice in the right hand corner of the freezer and it is between 50-60 degrees-long way from 0 degrees.

I found a GE I like but I have read that GE has had some troubles. My sister has a GE Monogram that is 3 years old and so far she hasn't had any problems, but I am not paying what she did for a frig.

You think I should just go with W/pool/Kenmore? Do you think the Maytags are made from W/pool parts now and would be the same? I have a Maytag dealer about 15 miles from me but I have heard also that they had TONS of problems at one time with their frig's.

Thanks for the help.

[rickgburton]

I think most of the problems have been ironed out by now. I don't think any one brand is any better than another brand. GE's use a motherboard to monitor the system and use to have problems with it . Now they've fixed the problems so whatever brand you get , you should be ok

[JWWebster]

The next step would be to get an a-1 valve tap and check the low side pressure. It should be 5 psi. If it is in the negative area of the low side  then you need to slowly add a tiny bit in. That machine probably is an R-12 unit. R-12 is costly but a substitute can be bought called freeze 12. It is worth it to try and give it a shot of gas to see if it comes back to life. I bet its just a hair low of gas.The back of the compressor should give which gas it takes. If it is a R134a model then you simply add a small amount from a small can of R134a. Even if you didn't have any gages you could add 1/3rd of a 12 ounce can.NO MORE! You could hire a company to do it but I bet you want to try and fix it yourself and that is why you are in this forum. 134a does not require a special card to buy. A novice can get a can at the auto parts store for 10 bucks.

[sparky823]

I have been using an old garage fridge till I could get time to go look at the new ones. Now I have been and looked and although it shouldn't be confusing, it is. I was going to get a Wpool but they still have to be cleaned(coils) from under the bottom like my old one and I HATE that job. I looked at some GE's which I like, also a Maytag and even a Frigidaire and was told these "all sell well and they don't have much problems out of them"?? I have been looking through different forums at fridge problems and there seems to be more GE troubles than any. I actually saw less Frigidaire(in fact way less) than GE. Hardly any LG's either but I am afraid I couldn't get service for those. Any input you have to help make up my mind would be appreciated. Is it better on the fridge that you have to clean those coils? I have noticed on the GE,Maytag and Frigidaire they all have the "No clean" coils that are sealed up. What is your thought s on this??

Thanks for your help.

[JWWebster]

sealed coils cannot be repaired. The ones I have came across are steel and rust internally and the leak can't be fixed. You end up having to get an old coil off of an older model and rigging it to the back. I would rather have the coils exposed underneith, pain that is may be.