GE oven not heating properly

[Tailspin]

Hi, I have a GE range and the oven is not heating properly.  I baked a meatloaf last night and it took too long for the meat to get to the proper temp.  Today, I tried to bake a pizza at 400 (just like last Friday) and the pizza looked like it had only been in for about 2 minutes at the 13 min mark.  I turned up the temp to 450 and the cheese began to melt and brown after about 10 min, but the bottom of the pizza was still rubbery and uncooked.  When I open the oven, I do not feel the heat like I used to.  Also, only the top of the pizza showed signs of heat, not the bottom.  Any ideas?  This oven is 20 years old this month.

Model JSC27GJ

[JWWebster]

well your bake element is either gonna be good or bad no in between. If it broils ok then your breaker probably is fine. Must be the oven control.

[Tailspin]

What is the oven control?  I'm looking for the part at repairclinic.com

[whirlpooltech]

I tried looking up your model number at repairclinic, but it seems you are missing some numbers.

Could you double check the model number?
Look at the model/serial number tag on the oven for the complete model number.

What is the oven control?

Should look something like this.

[Tailspin]

JSC27G0J4BG is the serial number

[Repair-man]

Before you rule out the elements, disconnect the breaker and check each element for continuity with your OHM meter. If they show to be good, then you  may well need a new ERC (control)

Earlier models of your stove had a mechanical clock, which the digital one shown above replaces . The clock controls voltage to the elements depending on which cycle is selected. All you have to do is rule out the elements as the problem.

[Tailspin]

Okay, I kind of know how to check for continuity.  Do we remove the elements from inside the stove to check, or can you access the element wiring from the back?  Should I get between 20-40 ohms if it is good?

[Repair-man]

If you can easily get to the back, do so, after removing power from the oven. I can sometimes remove the screws holding the element and slide it out, but sometimes it can get snagged or the wires may be too short, so I usually go to the back. Take one lead off the bake element, set your ohm meter to read RX1 and check across the bake element terminals. Depending on the wattage of the element, you could calcuate the OHms using OHMs Law, but if you get any continuity at all, the element is probably OK and the clock  is the likely culprit. The reason I like to take the back off is because they sometimes put a hi-limit thermostat on the back of the range which is in series with the bake element. Having the back exposed allows you the luxury of ruling this out at the same time and focusing on the issue.


Most GE bake elements are around 4500 watts so, 4500 divided into 240²=12.8 OHMs

[Tailspin]

Well, I don't think I have to check the continuity.  We examined the lower bake element and found a burnt spot, so it must be the lower element that is bad.

[Tailspin]

Thanks so much for all your help!  It was very much appreciated!  We saw on the internet what a bad spot looked like on the element, so we closely examined the baking element and saw a burnt spot.  Boy, I am so glad it was a much cheaper part than the oven control.  Gonna order that now from repairclinic.com.  Thanks again!

[Repair-man]

That's always a good sign. With any luck, it did not take out the clock relay with it.  We'll hold our breath.

Your element is shown below and you may click to order from Repair Clinic-

[Tailspin]

Cool!!  Thanks again, again!!  Have a great rest of the weekend!