Washer does not enter high speed spin!

[mdsarazin]

Our frigidaire front load washer will go through an entire cycle, but will not enter the high speed spin.  When it's done with the cycle, there's obviously still water in the tub.  It appears that the pump is functioning as it's supposed to, although I did remove several coins from the coin trap.  I've been told it's likely the Control Speed, although we tested it for continuity and it appears to be fine.  I also talked to a local parts store and the guy there insisted that you cannot test the Control Speed for continuity and that my problem was most definitely the Control Speed.

Now I've read something online about testing the door lock/switch, however after looking in the front panel area, I do not see a test connector?  I hate to spend $300+ on the board if it's just the door lock and switch assy.  I would love some help specific to my issue.   Thanks much!

Model FWT449GFS2

[Mr. Fix-It]

Are you sure your pump is operating properly any little thing caught in the impeller will stop these pumps. You also say there water still in the tub it will definitely not spin fast with water in the tub. Remove the pump and inspect the impeller sometimes there are things caught in it and other times the vanes are broken right off.

[mdsarazin]

Coins etc. have been removed from the pump, and since we removed the pump to do this, all the water has been removed from the machine.  The pump still pumped (although barely)...it was just loud due to the impedence of metal.  The impellars are all still intact.  I still suspect one of the other items based on the condition of my pump and the other forums I've seen.

[Mr. Fix-It]

If it does not spin when there is no water present it is usually the speed control.

[mdsarazin]

Maybe I'm missing something.  How do I test for the high speed spin without actually doing a load of laundry (dry run...i.e. no water)?  I thought the machine required some weight to be in the drum.  Please advise if there's a way to test for high speed spin with an empty drum and no water.

[Repair-man]

How about this...why not trust what one of us tells you because we have done this a hunnerd times??

 If there was another way to test the speed control board, we would gently guide you to a solution. If it was remotely associated with the door lock, it would not run at all. The nice thing about ordering a part from the  Repair Clinic website is they allow you to return the part even if we made the wrong diagnosis. You cannot lose, so the only thing preventing you from  washing clothes right now is your second-guessing a professional opinion.

[mdsarazin]

From reading through the comments I don't see how I've second guessed anyone, only trying to confirm my understanding with you.  I've received conflicting answers from sources outside of this forum so I wanted to get your opinion.

I have spent some more time on it this evening and pulled the diagnostics sheet and started performing each of the steps.  I got to step #2 and based on the result it said to check the motor thermal cut-out and not proceed to step 3.  I have no idea what this is or if it is separate from the motor or built in to the motor?  Thoughts?  Or are we still saying Speed Control board?

[Repair-man]

Sorry, just trying to save you some time and grief, since your skills with a multi-meter may not be up to par. If they are, however, there's a real quick way to tell if it is a bad motor or a bad speed control. The manual for the Frigidaire Gallery washer is below, so open it and pay particular attention to pages 51 and 52, which is a diagnostic chart for checking the motor system. If it were a thermal overload, the motor would not move, period.

At the end of the day, you will likely find the speed control to be bad , but only after you have eliminated the pump as suspect. This time, you can prove it with the data from the service manual.

Frigidaire Gallery Manual


I would be focusing more on the pump as a suspect, since any water left in the tub will prevent the machine from a high speed spin. The water level switch will see to that. Test the pump by letting the machine fill for a rinse, then switch the timer over to the spin cycle and count the seconds that the pump runs to empty the tub. It should have drained all 4 gallons in about 50 seconds, usually less.  If there is still water in the tub after 60 seconds, replace the pump anyway.

FYI, any front load washer can achieve high speed spin while no load is present...in fact, we usually test them this way in the field. If the machine will not go into a high speed spin even after you removed the last drop of water from the tub, then you likely have a bad speed control. And also a bad pump if it won't drain as mentioned above. In fact, a bad pump is the usual cause of motor failure, since it places an undue load weight on the tub while the motor is working to spin. Make sense?

[mdsarazin]

Thanks for your patience with me.  Yes my skills with a multi-meter are up to par, using professional grade...my neighbor happens to test computer boards like the speed control for a living.  Anyway...I don't have the full manual but did have the diagnostics page that was included in the envelope inside the machine.

In step one, I turned the machine to the spin cycle to see if the pump "worked".  It did as impeller(s) were spinning.  I'm on my way out the door to work, so I will have to run your tests this evening.  Upon further inspection however, I did notice that one of the blades is broken off...so I've got 3 of 4 still okay.

So...am I correct in coming to the following possible conclusion: coins etc. block up the pump, causing it to slow or stop altogether, putting undue load on the motor.  The motor thermal cut-out engages, cutting out the motor and causing possible damage to the speed control?

While my diagnostic indicates motor thermal cut-out, it did still move, and like you said below...it wouldn't move at all if the motor were bad.  Just curious though...if the motor were bad, is it still possible that the speed control will also be bad.  The reason I ask, is the cost of parts (if I need to replace pump & board for instance) are high enough to warrant considering kicking this one to the curb and buying a new machine.  If it's only one part...then it's worth saving.  Thanks again!

[Repair-man]

If it were my machine, I would replace the pump first. It may clear up the issue. Even a new speed control is not an unworthy investment, considering the replacement cost of the machine. There is no advantage to buying a new machine these days to avoid service issues. They are all built in the  same fashion with  parts that are  designed to fail. If you click the link I posted above to the Frigidaire Manual, you can download your very own  copy for reference.

[mdsarazin]

I think all the advice kind of clicked today in my mind in terms of what was going on with the washer.  I picked up a new pump at the parts store today and installed it.  I'm not convinced that the old pump was outright bad, but it definitely was plugged by the coins etc. preventing it from draining properly.  Since one of the blades was broken off, I decided to replace it...I had to start somewhere and this made the most sense based on your advice and our problem.  Ran a test load and everything works like a charm.  Pump got all the water out in about 30 seconds and the washer went into its high speed spin like it should.  I'm just glad I didn't go out and buy a new speed control before replacing the pump.  I saved $300 and for $100 got the thing running like new!

Again, thanks for your patience with a rookie appliance DIY'er.  While frustrating at times, I enjoy tinkering and learning new things...so all in all it was a good experience.  Thanks again!!

[mdsarazin]

One last comment...I guess the title of my Forum should have read, "washer does not drain the water and does not enter high speed spin".

Live and Learn!