WHIRLPOOL DRYER- HELP!!!

[Wendy.Cartwright]

Yah!!!      My dryer is fixed! Thank to all of you for your help. I fixed my dryer.

Q: If I'm not happy about the amount of heat my dryer is putting out should I replace the temp gage? If so, do I replace one or both of them?

[jumptrout51]

First check the temperature at the rear exhaust vent.
Remove the vent,
Run the dryer on Hi heat several minutes.
No laundry in the dryer.
If the temp is 135 to 160 degrees you are fine.

[Wendy.Cartwright]

This may be a stupid question but How do I check the temp, with a thermometer? LOL   I don't see a temp sensor...

[Repair-man]

Not a stupid question, just one more fact you do not know yet...
We use a digital multimeter with a temperature probe. You cannot use a "thermometer".
 An air conditioning or appliance dealer nearby has temp meters for sale.


Your vent situation is likely the only thing standing in your way to good drying results. Be sure you don't have that crappy foil vent hose on back, or you are asking for.... no begging for, failure later on. (Notice that little warning sticker on back?)

[Wendy.Cartwright]

Hello, you guys were sooo helpful last time I decided to come back for more... I have whirlpool dryer model # LER7646JQ0. My dryer works great with one exception, it has no heat. I checked the heating element and all of the coils are intact. I then replaced the thermostat and thermal fuse (both located on the dryer vent) and still NO HEAT. I then replaced the thermal cutoff and the hi limit thermostat (part # AP3094244).
I have a digital multimeter. My electrical outlet reads 243vac. On the washer, one wire read 120vac and the other reads 121vac. I'm not sure how exactly to check each component and what are they supposed to read?

Thanks in advance for your help

[JWWebster]

All seven of these things need to have continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove a wire from each one. Check for an open component. If all are ok then you have a bad timer. Click on pics to enlarge

[Wendy.Cartwright]

All seven of these things need to have continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove a wire from each one. Check for an open component. If all are ok then you have a bad timer. Click on pics to enlarge

Do I unplug every wire from each component? How do I check for an open component? How should I place my multimeter? What should my multimeter read?

[JWWebster]

Unplug the dryer before attempting any diagnostics.
Touch your 2 leads together on your ohm meter and turn the dial till you hear a beep.
The beep means a complete circuit is being made. Then check each thing with at least one wire off so that you won't get a false reading. Each component should give a nice beep if good except for the 2 small legs on top of the control thermostat which needs a very sensitive meter to measure resistance and is not usually the problem. We are looking for open components in the high amp carrying heat load wiring. Anything in that loop that is bad causes a no heat situation. When you set the timer for Cotton or high heat the power comes through the timer leg marked RH down to number 1 which is a 300 degree limit, then to number 3 which is a 250f limit then the element number 4 then to number 6 which is the control thermostat. Number 7 on the picture is the bias heater. They use a bias heater to warm the limit up so that it will shut down faster for perm press and knits. It would NOT be the reason you don't have heat so their is no need to check it since it takes a very sensitive meter to check it anyway. By the way number 5 is the fuse. If it was open the dryer would not run, your dryer runs so no need to check it. Click pic to enlarge
When number 1 fails that means number 3 is bad too. A number 1 failure is a direct result of a blocked vent. I am leaning towards a bad timer on this particular case. To check the timer attach one lead to the RH terminal Check for continuity between that point and any other leg on the timer. Turn the knob and keep checking. If you cannot get a beep then you know the timer innards either need filing down or a timer replacement.

[Wendy.Cartwright]

Touch your 2 leads together on your ohm meter and turn the dial till you hear a beep.

My multimeter doesn't beep...

[JWWebster]

The 3rd click to the right puts you in the ohms section.

[jumptrout51]

The 8th click to the right puts you where it beeps.The beep tells you the part has a chance of working.
The ohms reading is specific based on published ohm readings for parts within a plus/minus parameter,and is more accurate.
Your ohms setting does not beep.

[JWWebster]

Jumpy on the diode symbol in the ohms section her meter will have an audible beep?

[jumptrout51]

I thought that is where I directed her.
You know....the little pointy arrow.

[Wendy.Cartwright]

Hey guys, I fuigured out my multimeter. When the cuircuit is open my meter reads 1.
when the cuircuit is closed my meter reads -.000 pr some other number depending on
the part.

I have checked the heating element, the thermostate , the thermal fuse  and the hi-limit. All check good.
I am going to check the wires in the harness. I will update you when I get done.

Thanks for ALL your help

[Wendy.Cartwright]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you...

OK, I checked every wire and I didn't get a reading from this wire:
(Please look at the Picture)