70 series Kenmore electric dryer spins but does not heat

[llew_x]

OK, good news...I think.
An electrician friend of mine from work came over the house to take a look at the dryer today.
With the dryer plugged in he checked terminal where the plug is and then started checking the fuses and thermostats. Everything seemed ok until he put his leads across heating coil terminals and found it to have no continuity.
We removed the heating element and found where a section of the coil was broken.

So I'm happy now that I believe I know what the problem is and all I need now is a part number for the heating coil.

[llew_x]

Ok, so i clicked the link at the bottom of the page for Sears/Kenmore parts delivery, putt in model # in the appropriate field and couldn't come up with an exact match. It gave me 13 or so of the closest matches, the 3 listed that weren't coin operated look to be exactly like what I have....except one thing. The picture shows 3 different views of my heater element and none of those views is showing the High limit thermostat. Shouldn't the new heater come with the thermostat?

The part # I have, at least what I think it's supposed to be is AP2974879

[AJ]

So I'm happy now that I believe I know what the problem is and all I need now is a part number for the heating coil.

Heating Element Factory Part Number: 279838

Shouldn't the new heater come with the thermostat?

No

The high limit thermostat that is on the heating element is part number 3977767.

[JWWebster]

a 279838 is the 2nd highest priced of the 3 most popular.

[llew_x]

Ahh, cheap is good.

Question though....the terminal of the heater coil and the high limit thermostat are bussed together by what looks like either a spot weld or somehow crimped together. There's 3 little dimples that seem to be keeping the 2 components together.

Should I drill a hole in each and nut and bolt the two together?

[JWWebster]

The limit will come off with a screwdriver. Just prise it off there. No drilling needed. The heating element does not come with a limit. You must use the old one.Slide a thin blade under the fat lug to the heating element and it will come right off.

[llew_x]

You guys are the best!

Does anybody know of a parts store in Eastern MA that I might be able to go and pick up the heater element myself instead of waiting for delivery?

[dsekely]

does it matter that the replacement part you suggested is only 5200W?  The part that came off my dryer is 5400W

[utee94]

I was searching through the site and found this thread, which helped me on my Kenmore dryer problem back in December.  At the time, I found that my thermal cutout had no continuity and all other fuses/cutouts/limits were okay.  So I replaced that part, and the dryer began working once again.  In fact, it worked better than it had in probably years, drying clothes hotter and faster.

I'm not sure why the cutout died, I checked the exhaust vent and it was clear, and didn't notice any other issues.  I clean the lint trap regularly, pretty much every load or every other load.

But, once again, my thermal cutout has died, and I'm not certain why.  I'm hoping one of you experts might be able to help me out?

For reference, this is a Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer, "Extra Capacity" and was purchased in 1998.



Thanks in advance!
-Marcus
 

[JWWebster]

Remove the lint chute, the the big old box the filter lives in, wash it out good. Then replace the flex vent pipe going outside and make sure the vent is open. Or keep on buying limits.

[utee94]

Remove the lint chute, the the big old box the filter lives in, wash it out good. Then replace the flex vent pipe going outside and make sure the vent is open. Or keep on buying limits.

Thanks!  I'm really not interested in buying new limits every 3 months, so I think I'll try it your way... 

[utee94]

Okay, I've removed the lint chute and it had some crud in it, down at the very bottom.  It probably blocked about 15% of the opening.

So I have three questions, if anyone is around to help answer them:

1) Would a 15% blockage of the exhaust from the lint chute cause the thermal cutout to blow?

2) The 4" vent duct is bent a little bit, slightly crimped, maybe about 15% blockage as well.  Could that be a contributing factor?

3) I've read on other DIY forums that the lint trap screen itself can build up a sort of "film" that can only be removed with soap and water.  So, when you remove the lint, you're still not cleaning it well enough to keep it from becoming too hot.  Is that true?  Does that make sense?  And if so, how often should it be cleaned with soap and water?

Thanks again, so much, for your help.  This is a great forum with fantastic contributors.

-Marcus

[JWWebster]

Yes to all questions and I use a whisk broom to clean my filter. Those replacement filters are 30 bucks and banging them to get the lint off is not practical.

[utee94]

Great, thanks again for the help JWWebster.  I've thoroughly cleaned the filter, lint chute, replaced the ducting with new, and replaced the thermal cutout.  It's working now and hopefully I won't be back any time soon with questions on the same appliance... 

-Marcus

[utee94]

Well, it seems like the thermal cutout blew again.

The vent to the outside is one of those that has the flap that pushes open when the dryer is producing air pressure against it, and flaps closed in its normal position.  I checked its movement and it moves freely. The dryer worked just fine with this vent for 8 years.

Is there anything else I can check that might be the problem? 

I really don't want to trash this appliance, other than this issue it's in fantastic condition.

Thanks again in advance for your help.

-Marcus