How to replace a Whirlpool Duet washer bellow tub door seal

[spoonyjo]

Is it possible to do this repair without removing the top of the washer? My washer has the dryer stacked on top and they're both wedged into a very tight alcove...

[AJ]

Is it possible to do this repair without removing the top of the washer? My washer has the dryer stacked on top and they're both wedged into a very tight alcove...

I do not believe so, if it's like the model shown in the photo you will have to remove the top before you can take the control panel off.
What is the model number of your washer?

[spoonyjo]

The model number is GHW9400PW0 -- it's very similar to the one pictured in your photos above.

[AJ]

I took a quick look at the GHW9400PW0 Diagram and yes it does look the same.

I don't recall ever having to change one on a stacked pair, but I do believe your washer and dryer are regular separate units simply connected with a stacker kit.

I believe you will need to remove the dryer if you are going to remove the top of the washer and so on like I showed above. I have never replace a bellows on any front load washer without removing the front and I think on all brands that requires removing the top too.

That's just been my experience with them.

Your model washer uses bellows part # 8182119




Let us know how it goes or if you have any other questions.

[spoonyjo]

Seems that the dryer is bolted to the top of the washer using the stacking kit -- so removing the top of the washer is going to be an enormous task, and beyond my abilities. And I'm not willing/able to spend the hundreds of dollars a service call for this would likely cost.

Upthread, someone had recommended using a sealant product to try to fix a front leak -- is there any more information about this? (How to use it, where to apply it, etc...)

Otherwise, I'll have to continue with my "towel in front of the washing machine to soak up the leaks" method...

Thanks!

[AJ]

You could always try to do it with the front on as this guy does.


http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=306.msg35699#msg35699


but just remember the person in the above link is a experienced technician that has done many of them over the years.


There is a person in this topic that seem to have had good luck patching one from a maytag front loader.


http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=6507.0

[Sasquatch]

This site is a tremendous find!  So much information, all my local guys want to charge me $175 just to roll up to the door.

I know my problem, it's a leaking gasket on a Whirlpool Duet Front loader. 

I called a repair shop and was told it's probably the pump, it's right in that area and is known to fail.  Repair shop won't sell me a pump unless they come out and diagnose the problem. Off to the internet and find a pump at a relatively low price, have it shipped here and replaced in about 15 minutes.  Fire it up, still leaking.  Upon closer inspection with a nice bright flashlight I notice a slice about an inch long with a small amount of water coming out of it. Yup there's my leak.

Seems I'm going to attempt the tire patch method referenced from another thread. I'm leaving for vacation soon and the Authorized Repair Center needs to come out and make a diagnosis before they will order a part which can take up a week to receive I was told. 

Even though I told them it was the gasket which I made video with my cell phone which no one cares to see. I realize this is their price structure and way of doing business but a little common sense would help keep me a long term customer rather than a disgruntled old man who will go out of his way to avoid these guys and their business practices in the future.

I'm somewhat handy buy I'm not sure I'm confident enough to attempt this.  The pump went flawlessly yet I still wonder if I really did it correctly or if it's just waiting to bite me you know where!

I'll post some of my experiences with the tire tube repair just as soon as I get it done.

Thanks again for all the info out here on this site.  I've been checking the site out all over.

John

[AJ]

 

[rmbraught]

(1) Leave the door open between washes.
(2) half cup bleach in the tub, empty Hot wash cycle once a month
(3) in the U.S. we get to sell 'Afresh' (or similar) wash tablets to the consumer, for monthly cleaning (they do work)

Thanks krazytech; I'll check out 3M Sealant 800!
IMO older full size Duets are OK w/o front panel removed, the Duet Sports require me to pull the panel off (I'm old.) AFA marking the inside boot 'up' fitting, they're both marked by tub/boot molding.

[Animama]

Thank you so much for these instructions. They gave my daughter and me the confidence to replace the door seal.

I recommend using a Sharpie marker to mark the position of the inner bellow clamp before removing it.    You DO NOT want to over tighten that clamp.

Thank you for this hint. It proved very helpful.

[Brent@CanBC]

Have had complete success with the patch job on these boots so far.  Have done 8 now, and no call backs.   I don't use the 3M scotch seal Industrial stuff on the rubber boots,  I used it on other things but not the rubber seals.   
 
I use the "Gloozit" industrial clear stuff successfully now.   I also remove the front spring and access the under side of the boot, where the cut is,  and I apply a transperent 3M scotch 2"x2" patch after cleaning.  This patch on the under side keeps the cut flat, and easy to work with on the upper side.  Then I apply this Gloozit,  and I cover the cut 1"x1" size if its just a smaller cut, and more for the larger cuts.  I let that set and seal,  and apply a second topping,  and let that set and seal over night.  This is very flexible, but the key is to have the 2"x 2" patch on the under side to keep the rubber boot cut in place.  If the customer wants the new boot, they get the new boot.   I do try to work them to the new boot,  but if they hesitate, I offer them the patch, and they do go for that.   In my service area,  as probably yours,  my  people are very quick to make a decision.   They do at times drop off their machines for me, and go buy new in the City,  so again,  they are very quick to act on their problems.   I have done these patch jobs on the dropped off units,  and sold them,  and life just keeps on, keeping on hey.  Brent@CanBC

[doseedo]

Is it possible to do this repair without removing the top of the washer? My washer has the dryer stacked on top and they're both wedged into a very tight alcove...

You've probably solved this by now but I was able to replace the gasket / seal without removing the top and front. My dryer is stacked on top and I wasn't able to take it down.

It takes some patience but it can be done.

Pretty much follow the same steps described here but without removing the top/front.

[schaffersapplian]

Yeah, I change all of the bellows now without taking them apart.  Doesnt matter the brand or size of the machine.  They are all pretty easy without taking them apart.  I must say the Electrolux style bellow is the the hardest though.

[niobrara]

How do you do the back spring clamp without taking the front off? Even then I fight some of them.

[ScottyMo1]

That LG spring tool will not work on whrilpool springs, it does not open far enough to get the clamp back on. I've considered trying to heat and spread the tines on that tool to get a wider spread on it, but for now it's just on my list of things to experiment with. I too find it easier to remove the front of the unit. Usually can be done in about 10 minutes, so adds a little time to the repair, but much easier on the hands and fingers.