Sears dryer won't heat

[verdant1]

My stackable Kenmore dryer suddenly stopped circulating hot air after completing a cycle that was perfectly satisfactory.  Everything else cycles properly but no heat is present.  I removed the heating coil unit and it appears to be in good condition with no breaks or compromises.  I also removed the two thermostats but have no way to test them at home.   I haven't removed the cycle selector unit that controls the type of drying phase desired (cotton, perm. press, air, etc.) reasoning that it still seems to function properly.
Must I take the thermostats and heating coil unit to a shop to test them?  Thanks for any insight into this problem you might provide.

Model 110.88390110

[Mr. Fix-It]

When there is no heat coming from a dryer the first thing I check is to see if you have 240 volts at the plug. A lot of times if you have fuses one will blow(a dryer uses 2 ) and you will get no heat but it will still run. If you rule that out its likely the element or one of the thermostats. You need an Ohm meter to test them ( A cheap multimeter is a good investment for any DIYer) and check and see if the parts have continuity. If it isn't any of these things then it's probably the timer not switching the element on when it should.

[verdant1]

Thank you.

[verdant1]

I get 9.6 ohms across the coil, and 0 ohms across both thermostats.  I don't know what is normal.

[Mr. Fix-It]

They are all good then.

[verdant1]

I presume that it must be the timer in that case.

[Mr. Fix-It]

Did you check for 240 volts? There is also the centrifugal switch on the motor but thats hard to test.

[verdant1]

This dryer works off of a 110V wall outlet.  My refrigerator is also off of the same outlet and it is working perfectly.  I presume that the outlet is working properly.

[Repair-man]

Mr Fixit, this is one of the "subcompact" models that uses a 120 volt heater. Not a stack unit, but "stackable", as he said. Even on its best day it takes an hour and a half to dry a big load.

Model is actually 110.88390110


 To the homeowner, all you have to do is use your voltmeter to see if there is 120 volts to the heater. It passes from the timer thru the temp switches, the motor centrifugal switch to the heater. Very well could be a timer, but let's be professional. You are aware of the tech sheet in the cabinet?

120 volt heater-  (9.4-9.8 Ohms)

[JWWebster]

you is getting 9.6 to the coil so that is a good one. You won't get a good heat out of this dryer if it is competing with a refrigerator on the same circuit. It is lucky if it will dry clothes at all with nothing in the circuit but it.

[verdant1]

Thank you for your replies.  I concluded that the problem must be with the timer.  Since the airflow is good, and the drum turns, the heating element has 9.6 Ohms across it, and the thermostats are good, it must be the timer.  I called Sears to buy another one, but they say a timer for this unit is no longer available.  I don't want to trash this entire unit because it fits so well in my apartment.  Is there another source for timers?  Is there a test for timers?  I can remove the timer but it requires removal of a faceplate and that requires drilling out a couple of rivets.  Not a big job however.

[Repair-man]

Ok, now you are just being silly. There are plenty of 24" dryers in every brand on the market, so lets not dream up ways of getting around the fact that your unit is obsolete now. Puh-leeze...deal with it.

You will have to upgrade your wall plug to a 240 VAC 30A outlet, as there are no more 120 volts models  around that we know of..the DOE practcally made them obsolete due to their energy wasting capabilities.


The timer is nowhere to be found. When you cue the database on Whirlpool, this is what you get:

"Timer - no longer available - This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source for the part"


The original part number is 693550 from Whirlpool. Not every thing is repairable. We would know if it was.

[verdant1]

No thank you.  Silly I'm not.  But excuse me for insulting your sensibilities;  I would rather simply repair something simple than rewire my rented apartment and buy a new dryer.  I guess that's why I would spend time on this forum rather than in an appliance store...duh.

[Repair-man]

And as you can see, if there is a way to fix things, we will help you. There are thousands of examples of such on this forum.  Don't you think we would rather sell you a part than see you go buy somthing new? 


Would you prefer an up-front answer when you come to a help forum, or instead someone who only wants to sell you something? Trust me, I have nothing whatsoever to gain from helping you but the satisfaction in knowing I gave the most honest assessment possible.

[JWWebster]

You could at least get an electrician to bust your wall plug into two circuits like they do for dishwashers and disposals. That way the 2 appliances won't be on the same circuit. By the way you can go into the timer. Make sure you remove the ring around the shaft so as not to disturb the rotating wheel up inside the timer. Then ya's can take a peek and see if you have a burr on the contact where the hot wire from the heating element connects to said timer. If you are good you can file down the burnt contact and get that sick puppy to work.
That little old dryer by the way would make a dang good condenser dryer.Set it outside in a sealed container where the sun hits it directly all day. Let the heat from inside the container dry the clothes.