Whirlpool error code f-28

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[dcjj2]

My dryer just quit working and we had a few times that the power went out. It gives me just one error code f-28. I tried removing the harness and then reattaching it to the CCU but I dint know were the MCU is to try the harness it. Everything on the front panel works as it should and you try and start it up like normal and it all looks like it is going to work. The door locks but then it silent besides a few clicks every so often until maybe 5 minutes and then it will flash the error code f-28. Any ideas?

Model Number: wfw8500sr0

[laundryman]

f-28 is a serial communication error. either your main cntrl or motor control is going to be bad. hard to say which one without a multi meter and the machine in front of me though.

[Shazam!]

f-28 is a serial communication error. either your main cntrl or motor control is going to be bad. hard to say which one without a multi meter and the machine in front of me though.

I've got my multimeter and my machine in front of me, and my machine giving me that pesky F-28 error code.

Upon testing the drive motor, ohmmeter readings:

Pins 1 and 2: 118 ohm (supposed to be approx 6 ohm)
Pins 2 and 3: infinite (supposed to be approx 6 ohm)
Pins 1 and 3: infinite (supposed to be approx 6 ohm)

For sh*ts & giggles, I tested the door lock switch on connector DL3, with following results:

Pins 2 and 3: 48 ohms (supposed to be 60 ohms)
Pins 1 and 3: 103 ohms (supposed to be 60 ohms)

From this information can it be determined with certainty what my problem is?

Thank you,
Scott

[Repair-man]

If your OHM meter is set to RX1 then the motor is bad. Infinite readings on the motor windings mean a bad motor, according to the Tech Sheet. Have you run the Diagnostic tests mentioned in the tech sheet yet?

[JWWebster]

Jimbo is this one of them reversing dryers with 3 phase dc motor?

[Shazam!]

If your OHM meter is set to RX1 then the motor is bad. Infinite readings on the motor windings mean a bad motor, according to the Tech Sheet. Have you run the Diagnostic tests mentioned in the tech sheet yet?

Thank you for the replies.

[I didn't state this originally, but I measured the readings on the 5-wire connector after disconnecting the connector from the drive motor per page 5-8 of my tech manual.]

I ran the diagnostic test spelled out on page 6-5, and this is where I got the F-28 error code.  Being a total newbie to this, I couldn't figure out where to go from there.

Jimbo is this one of them reversing dryers with 3 phase dc motor?

I'm not sure this question was to me, but [when it was working] the washer does spin in one direction, then will stop and spin the other direction.

[Repair-man]

Jimbo is this one of them reversing dryers with 3 phase dc motor?

No, it's a Duet Sport washer with a 3-phase DC motor. A bad motor at that.

Scott, you'll find the MCU on the floor in the left front corner. It may also need to be replaced if the motor went out. Try to go to the motor and make sure none of the small wires going to it are damaged. I have replaced a lot of harnesses between the MCU and the motor before due to broken wiring on the connector harness.

[JWWebster]

My dryer just quit working  It gives me just one error code f-28.

Model Number: wfw8500sr0
<img alt="icon" width="1" height="1" src="http://ad.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/show?id=omv7WULuxaw&bids=93887.761931726&type=10&subid=">

[Shazam!]

Scott, you'll find the MCU on the floor in the left front corner. It may also need to be replaced if the motor went out. Try to go to the motor and make sure none of the small wires going to it are damaged. I have replaced a lot of harnesses between the MCU and the motor before due to broken wiring on the connector harness.

The thing about it is that all the wiring I can see looks fine.  Everything looks nearly brand new on the inside.  No obvious wire issues....  The only sign of use is some slight wear of the belt and rubber specks on the parts nearby.

[Repair-man]

Now that you have access to the motor, unplug the harness and verify the motor windings again while directly in front of the motor, not from the CCU harness. See if it still shows the same readings as before.

[Shazam!]

Now that you have access to the motor, unplug the harness and verify the motor windings again while directly in front of the motor, not from the CCU harness. See if it still shows the same readings as before.

OK, but how exactly do I verify the motor windings?

[Repair-man]

"Motor Continity Test"
Page 10 of the Tech sheet I gave you.

[Shazam!]

Missed the link before, thanks.

Isn't that the same sheet that was tucked into the plastic the bottom front panel?

[Repair-man]

Look familiar does it?

It's the bible as far as a technician is concerned....

[Shazam!]

Now that you have access to the motor, unplug the harness and verify the motor windings again while directly in front of the motor, not from the CCU harness. See if it still shows the same readings as before.

OK, I measured the resistance per the pin matrix and got 5.8 to 5.9 ohms for each reading, which is pretty close the the 6 ohms they are supposed to be.

What should I do next?

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