Kenmore Elite Washer (Calypso)

[BoomerD]

Looks like the Kenmore Calypso has died...again. (purchased in 2002)

The control panel is totally dead. No LED's, no beeps, nada.

I've taken it apart and tested with a multi-meter as much as I know how to.

I have power to the line filter, out of the line filter, and power to both sides of the fuse on the motor control board.

This POS isn't worth putting much more money into...it's the worst washer we've owned in 34 years of marriage...certainly a far cry from the Whirlpools of yesteryear.

Sadly (sort of) we had none of the problems that would have qualified us for the class-action lawsuit...until after the closing date to qualify. (figures, huh?)

Other than just scrapping this thing and buying a new one, any suggestions?
(we're on a tight budget with a very fixed income)

IF the general recommendation is to cut our losses and replace it, any suggestions for a GOOD washer in the $350-$600 range?

I LIKE the Speed Queens, but read VERY mixed reviews on them. (plus the wife doesn't want to turn loose of that much $$ if we can avoid it.)

Our local appliance dealer has a "scratch & dent" warehouse, but it seems like all they have in there are G.E.'s...which everyone recommends avoiding.

Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any replies. :tip hat:

Model 110.24082200

[RegUS_PatOff]

110.24082200 Tech Sheets

also check Sears Outlet Stores for (Whirlpool-Kenmores & other) appliances

[BoomerD]

Thanks for the reply. I have that tech sheet...it's tucked inside the cabinet. I'm actually surprised one of the techs hasn't taken it in the past...

One more thing. I've been fighting an intermittant lid switch error. USUALLY, you just have to open/close the lid a couple of times to make it clear. I know the switch will stop operation of the machine, butcould that switch be cutting all power to the machine control board? If so, can I just jumper around the switch temporarily to test it?

[Repair-man]

Yes, you can bypass the lid switch for a quick test, but your problem sounds more like a control failure. This machine was discontinued in 2005 after less than 4 years of production due to  excessive failure ratios. Among the notorious failures include:

1. Control issues
2. Pressure switch failures
3. Pump failures
4. U-joint failure

This machine is not worth investing in period...

You asked for suggestions:

Get a proper front loader such as the Whirlpool Duet for the best performance among the current brands out there. Staying out of Sears is a good start. Their salesmen are brainwashed into selling you whatever piece of junk they are earning the most perks on at the moment, and they are more than happy to show you all the problems with the brands other than their own. Once you're out the door...well, you know...

[BoomerD]

Thanks...you've pretty much said exactly what I've been telling the wife...

The Calypso isn't worth putting any more $$$ into. Fortunately, until this one, all the previous repairs have been under warranty, regular or extended.

I agree that it's probably the control board. IIRC, Sears replaced it 3 or 4 years ago to fix some other little problem, even though it was working.

As nice as the front-loaders are, we don't want one. We'd prefer to stay with a good top-loader, and AFAIC, Sears is NOT on our shopping list. This machine has been enough to turn me off of Sears. "Best washer to come along in 20 years," they claimed... 

Any recommendations for a good TL in the lower price ranges?

If push comes to shove, we'll probably get an inexpensive GE from the scratch & dent warehouse...with an extended warranty to get us by for a couple of years.

Any recommendations on the Speed Queen units? It seems like owners love them, but repair people hate them. (sounds like it's because they're a PITA to work on)

[Repair-man]

A GE topload washer is a good low-end buy, but wasting your money on a warranty is sort of a drag. We provide all the repair help you need, from manuals to parts, so I guess I don't understand why you  might do this unless you are mechnically challenged

The Whirlpool or Maytag top loaders, also Admiral & Speed Q are OK as well, and provide dependable service with cheaper repair parts than GE ever will.

[BoomerD]

Not so much mechanically challenged as physically disabled nowadays.

(I've wrenched on cars for almost 40 years. I just can't do much of it anymore...(and I know ZIP about laundry machinery)

I can get a 4 year extended warranty from the appliance store we do business with for under $100. GOOD coverage, either from their repair department, or any repair shop we choose. Far cry from the $300 extended warranties from Sears or Best Buy.

I've heard that the GE repair parts are ridiculous...must be made of solid gold...something us peons just don't realize.

For all our 34 years of married life, (see...it IS a life sentence!) we've owned Whirlpool or Kenmore-branded Whirlpool washers. It's sad to see what kind of crap they're turning out nowadays. It USED to be that a Whirlpool washer was good for 15-20 years or more. Now, it seems like you're doing good to get 5 or more years out of one without a major repair.

[BoomerD]

Jumpering around the lid switch didn't accomplish anything...so, it's time to find a decent used set to replace this Craplypso.
The dryer is a Whirlpool built Kenmore and is 19 years old. It needs some TLC (and I think a rear drum seal) but it still works fine...

[BoomerD]

As a final note to this, We bought a "gently used" Kirkland branded Whirlpool washer and dryer today from a couple who is "downsizing" their house. (hopefully not because they're losing it.)

I have downloaded the manuals from Whirlpool and will install them tomorrow. I have to swap the dryer cord from a 4 wire to a 3 wire since that's what the house is wired for. SHOULDN'T be too difficult...even for me. 

Any information, advice, or cautions will be greatly appreciated.
washer = SAWS 800 MQ0
dryer = SEDS 800 MQ0

Thanks for all your help and advice on the Craplypso...