Kenmore dryer blowing thermal fuses

[Grayfox]

I've got a Kenmore electric dryer 70 Series Model # 110.60702990. Its about 8 years old.

About two weeks ago the motor quit. I checked it out and found the thermal fuse blown. I replaced it and the dryer worked fine for about 4 days. It quit again, thermal fuse was blown again. It was an aftermarket fuse. Local Sears parts store is out of them. So I replaced the fuse again. Again it worked fine for several days and blew the thermal fuse again.
It does not quit in mid-cycle. It always finishes, but will not come on for the next load. Heater coils do come on, its just the motor that won't work. Timer seems to be working fine.

So far I have checked:
Wall socket voltage is 246 volts.
All duct work has been checked and cleaned. New vent hose installed with the first fuse. Lint chute removed and cleaned out. It didn't have a whole lot in it.
Blower fan looks fine. Spins freely.
Motor looks fine. Bearings turn smoothly and no noise.  No end or side play in the shaft. No sign of any burnt wires.
Drum turns smoothly. Drum rollers spin free and no noise. Drum seals look fine.
Entire cabinet cleaned out the first time I had it apart.

Could it be possable that the thermostat is bad causing the heating element to stay on too long and blowing the thermal fuse for the motor? How would I check it?

I'm completely out of ideas and can't afford a new dryer. HELP!

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Heater coils do come on, its just the motor that won't work....

there's your problem.
The Heater Elements shouldn't turn on without the Motor turning
(Motor Centrifugal Switch)
and should turn OFF at the end of the Cycle when the Motor stops,
or the Dryer will over-heat (blower not turning)

[Grayfox]

Can the centrifical switch be replaced or do I have to replace the whole motor? I don't see the switch in the parts diagram.

[RegUS_PatOff]

it's part of the Motor ...

[BrntToast]

remove the heater from its housing and inspect it visually
it might be broken and touching the housing completing a circuit to ground or it could have a bra wire in it grounding it.
a grounded element will still heat with the motor not running, causing fuses to blow after the cycle finishes

if you find a element shorted to groung after it is replaced you need to make sure the cool down on the timer still functions(last ten minutes of all cycles have no heat=cool down)

you can also check with a meter for continuity between each terminal for the heater and the heater housing

[RegUS_PatOff]

..
it might be broken and touching the housing completing a circuit to ground ..

yes, I forgot about that ...

[Grayfox]

Well guys, it was a shorted heater element. Got it all fixed now.   

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.