Author Topic: IA84600 Inglis dryer doesn't heat  (Read 7189 times)

Offline RickT

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IA84600 Inglis dryer doesn't heat
« on: November 08, 2007, 10:18:26 PM »
I have a 13 year old Inglis clothes dryer model IA84600 and it will not heat at all. Would this be a thermostat or heating unit? are there instructions available to replace these?
« Last Edit: January 07, 2008, 01:01:49 PM by AJ »

Offline rickgburton

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Re: Inglis dryer doesn't heat
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2007, 11:12:31 PM »
Thats a brand I haven't heard of before. Can you tell me where it was made? Where was it purchased? I'll see what I can find.
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Offline accapp

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Re: Inglis dryer doesn't heat
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2007, 11:23:10 PM »
That's a Canadian Whirlpool brand.

Is the lint filter on top or in the door? Probably a thermal fuse open due to a clogged exhaust.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

Offline RickT

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Re: Inglis dryer doesn't heat
« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2007, 10:13:54 PM »
I do keep the exhaust clean.  How do i go about finding and testing the thermal fuse?  The lint filter is up top. 

thanks!

Offline accapp

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Re: Inglis dryer doesn't heat
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2007, 10:31:38 PM »
Unplug it or kill the electric power to the unit and remove the rear panel. The thermal fuse is about 1-1/2" long by 7/16" wide, mostly white and has two 3/16" terminals coming off it. It should have around 0 ohms when tested for continuity. Does the heat come from electric or gas?
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Offline JWWebster

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Re: Inglis dryer doesn't heat
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2008, 04:02:42 PM »
I have worked on Inglis dryers. The heating element is located behind the dryer. Unplug the dryer and get it outside where you can clean it up. The rear panel need to be removed. The element has 2 red wires going to it. Remove one of them and check for continuity in the heater element. Below is pictured the heat element. If it check good then their is a high limit mounted next to it.as pictured below. The limit may have a fuse located at the top of the chamber too. Hence the 2nd limit in the packet. If those are ok and the breaker is cool I would say the timer is shot. The RH lead going into the timer should have continuity on other leads at times while slowly turning the timer knob. Remove the wire from the RH lead and put a meter on it and on any other lg on the timer. While turning the knob the circuit should make and break as you hear the timer click. If you cannot get a reading in any position it is a bad timer. You can inspect the timer but be careful if it falls apart you may not be able to put it back together.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2008, 04:08:42 PM by JWWebster »
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