Author Topic: Kitchenaid Range Stops Heating after Self Clean  (Read 1627 times)

Offline TechnicianBrian

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Kitchenaid Range Stops Heating after Self Clean
« on: November 16, 2008, 10:51:37 AM »

Model #KESC307HWW6icon, this slide in range would not heat using any of the oven modes, but the cook top worked just fine. The customer didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, but they did recently self clean the oven. With this information at hand, I had a good direction to start my trouble shooting process.



Most ovens that have a self clean function utilize both the back and broil heating elements to generate very high temperatures within the oven cavity. These high temps essentially turn the oven into an incinerator which burns up any spills or remaining food items. What remains after the cycle is usually bits of ash that can be easily cleaned with a sponge or damp cloth. Because of the high temperatures involved, ovens will be equipped with a door lock that will remain active until the internal temperature has returned to normal cooking levels.

Because the customer had recently run a self clean cycle and all the heating elements where no longer functioning, I looked for something in the circuit that may be common to these things and found a thermal fuse located on the back of the unit. If you look at the sample circuit diagram, this fuse, which is part of a wire harness, will open up the L2 side of the circuit to all the elements resulting in them no longer working. The fuse, like most fuses, is a safety device in the event of an over current, or over heat condition. Located behind the oven cavity, it is exposed to the any excessive heat that may be generated in the event any one of the elements gets stuck in the on position. Designed to open the circuit well before any fire could start, the fuse is there to prevent any fire damage. Unfortunately, the temperatures generated during self clean cycle are very high and sometimes the fuse will open the circuit when it shouldn't. Usually its age and many self clean cycles that takes it's toll on the fuse, but on some ranges, it can be a cooling fan problem, improper installation, or just dumb luck. A quick resistance check with a meter verified the fuse had opened the circuit.


The fuse on this range is part of a wiring harness that connects the L2 terminal block to the control board located on the lower right side of the range. The replacement simply requires removing the rear and right side panels held in place with a few screws. The old harness easily slides out, and the new harnessicon and fuse takes it's place. With everything back together, the oven heats, and all the elements work. The customer will most likely self clean their oven with less frequency knowing what they now know.

 

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