Whirlpool Duet Dryer No Heat . Ive tested Everything HELP!

[Camperman]

Model Number: GEW9200L
OK .. Im about to give up and beat this thing with a hammer ..

The Problem : NO HEAT  from dryer .Dryer spins and moves air.Just No heat .

Things i have done  Tested the heater/heatercoil  getting continuity .

                           Tested the Thermal Fuse Getting continuity.

                           Tested the Thermal Cutoff Getting continuity.

                           Tested the High-Limit Thermostat Getting continuity.
I was a bit confused why the instruction i found on the web said that the heater coil should
have 9 - 12 ohms  When i test it ,it would barley show even one ohm but continuity was fine .

BTW here is the PDF i used for my testing thus far . May help someone else

8178071 L-69 Whirlpool Duet Gas & Electric Dryers Service Repair Manual

I really have no idea where to go from here .. I dont mind checking for voltage as long as someone can walk me thru it .. 220 tends to scare the crap out of me ..

The Camperman

                           

[JWWebster]

Are you removing at least one wire from each component you check so you won't get a false reading?

[Camperman]

Are you removing at least one wire from each component you check so you won't get a false reading?

Yes ... well versed in testing wires of continuity ..  Each component is fine.

after some more reading .. Im starting to lean toward the cintrifugal switch.

Tomarrow morning im going to bite the bullet and stat probing for 240 at L2 before the cintrifugal switch. If thats good to go then i guess its the motor/switch  or the relay circuit .   any ideas would be great @!

[JWWebster]

I gotta tell ya I have never even seen a duet washer or dryer. But if your motor has a quick connection type plug then usually the 2 fat red wires going from terminals 1 and 2 or the outer wires are where you check. You dont need to make the motor go. You can manually move the centrifugal switch to check for continuity.

[jams001]

Service manual was very helpful, thanks. 

[Camperman]

Glad i could help ya out ...

[Camperman]

OK im about to throw in the towel here .. ive checked voltage coming in to dryer ... All is well 

Checked voltage getting to the heater coil.120 is getting there from the relay switch .. Just one side.

So i would think that would leave me one choice and that would be the centrfugal switch inside the motor.Uggg as a test i shorted the relay while the dryer was on . Like magic the heater coil came on . Thought i was getting somewhere ..  OK so if i bypassed the relay and it worked then that should mean the centrifugal switch is good shouldnt it ?? And thus a bad electical control board. Keep in mind i can hear the replay klicking open when the dryer is turned off during normal running without shourting it out ..  If its clicking it should be working yes ?  A qucik reply would be awsum from any imput b4 i go spend money on a control board .. if its the centrifugal switch ill will most likey so forget it and buy a new dryer ..  The link in my original post has a wireing diagram ... check it out ..

[Camperman]

OK ... update .. Pulled the out ... at this point nothing to loose ..

tested for continuity on the two plugs that had two red leads .. One read lead seems to go to the heater coil.the other read lead is going in to the motor from somwhere.

Anywho i spun the motor by hand and was not getting continuity tried the other connectors  and still nada ... So the centrifugal swotch is bad rite ??

Come on people  some one answer ... Or is my post getting too deep .. ??

[JWWebster]

Wow. You gotta wham doozy going there.
I gotta wake up leroy.

[RegUS_PatOff]

I don't think the Centrifugal Switch will work when just spinning the Motor by hand.

On a 240v device (the Heater Element), you can't just measure one side to ground.
That 120v reading could be comming from either L1 or L2...

Here's a way to tell:

Run the Dryer in the NO HEAT MODE

now check the voltage from each side of the Thermal Cut-Off to chassis (ground)

If there's 120v there, then the L2, Motor Switch, Heater, Hi-Limit, and Thermal Cut-Off are good.

If 0v, now you can check each side of the Heater Element to chassis (ground), ect...

It could be a bad Heater Relay on (or) the Controller Board.

While the Dryer is running in the Normal Heat Mode, if you could carefully measure the voltage across the Relay wires on the Controller Board.

Big Black wire to Big Red wire

0v = GOOD
240v = bad Relay or Controller.

[Camperman]

Awsum information there regus and thank you .. Unfortunatly it came a bit too late.I pulled the motor out last night ... And is now sitting on the floor .

I had a friend over looking at it an like a moron he shifted a cpl of the bushings in the motor ..

Out em back in place but i dont trust it now .. So ... I guess a new motor will be going in ..

I had tested all the other parts you had mentioned so i am down too as you said  the Relay or the centrifugal switch .. I guess ill find out after the new motor goes in today .. If that dont work ill be replacing the entire electronic control board . There cant be anything else wrong with it at that point ..

Thanx for trying tho ...

[RegUS_PatOff]

... There cant be anything else wrong with it at that point ..

.. could even be a broken wire perhaps .. ??

[Camperman]

No ... No broken wires ..  All of them even contuniuty from the L1 relay down to the heater coil ..  couldnt check for continuity on the cenrtrifugal side .

As i said earlier i did cross the red and black wire on the replay with a screwdriver. and the heater coil glowed .. :-)

This made me think the replay was bad . But i could hear the replay click on and off when turning on the dryer normally So that brought me back to the centrifugal switch..  Ugggg my brain is spining again allready !

[RegUS_PatOff]

The Relay could "click" and still be bad (bad contacts)

[Camperman]

Very correct about the relay switch .. ( dont know whay i kept hitting the P and spelling replay earlier )

searched all over town today to find a motor .. Almost found one used for 30 $ But it was a inch to long Urrrrg!

On the way home i seen a appliance and followed him .. He ended up living the next street over. Asked if he had one ... and he did in the back of his truck But again too long .. He he was nice enough to come over and take a peak ..

After explaining everything i had done and tested .. He tends to agree its the electronic control board .. But the good news is he thought his partner had just picked up the same model washer and dryer  ( washer was toast ) So he is going to give a call tomarrow on the motor . And also maybe a electronic control board. SO that would cover all my bases .. 3o to 40 for a motor and 100 for a used board sounds pretty good .. ill let ya all know how it turns out ..

Oh and the reason im going nuts over the motor is cuz my 15 year old damged it while removing it .. Why cant they keep there fingers out of things ! ??