Author Topic: Testing Oven Ignitors  (Read 2468 times)

Offline Repair-man

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Testing Oven Ignitors
« on: November 12, 2008, 05:36:29 AM »
This diagram will give a quick synopsis of how ignitors work:
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Offline JWWebster

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Re: Testing Oven Ignitors
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2008, 11:07:00 AM »
I always check them with my Amprobe to make sure they is pulling at least 3.5 amps but the average Joe out there ain't got a hundred bucks to slap down on a amprobe so I noticed the weak ignitors tend to be a lot dimmer than the good ones. If a person sees that the ignitor is working they naturally assume it is good when 99 % of the time it is bad. Another way to know for sure it is the ignitor is to jostle the stove, if that makes it light off then that is a sure thing the ignitor is bad. Why? Well I know in order for the gas safety to be bad it would have to be either leaking gas or open(no continuity). So kicking the side of the stove an making it come on does not magically fix the safety valve. And the thermostat is obviously working because the ignitor is coming on. So that leaves a weak Ignitor. When I had my appliance parts store I would always tell guys to bring it to me and I would check it on the bench. I am retired now but guys do come by the house from time to time to get me to check em.
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Offline RegUS_PatOff

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Re: Testing Oven Ignitors
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2008, 02:44:59 PM »
This diagram will give a quick synopsis of how ignitors work:

That's true for flat (Norton) Ignitors,but

round (Carborundum) Ignitors are diiferent current draw and use different Gas Valves.

Flat Igniters draw 3.3 to 3.6 amps
Round igniters draw 2.5 to 3.0 amps

(when in doubt, read info printed on Gas Valve)

Round Ignitor

click on picture $ 11.99 (sometimes on sale)

« Last Edit: November 12, 2008, 03:21:04 PM by RegUS_PatOff »
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Offline JWWebster

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Re: Testing Oven Ignitors
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2008, 10:16:48 PM »
Yep their are different values for round ignitors verses flat style as reggie said. But the main thing is you want to suspect the ignitor from the beginning. Think about it: If the whole circuit works then that means the gas valve is ok and the thermostat has continuity, so that leaves the ignitor as a real suspect. If it is dim it is most likely bad. Check out this link to a bad ass diagram of how a flat style ignitor works on a common maytag stove. Click on the pic to enlarge and see the motion:
http://sites.google.com/site/sublimeappliancerepair/oven-will-not-work-igniter-secrets
« Last Edit: November 12, 2008, 10:24:32 PM by JWWebster »
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Offline schaffersapplian

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Re: Testing Oven Ignitors
« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2008, 08:16:45 PM »
i carry one of these in my meter pouch and never leave home with out it!
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Offline RegUS_PatOff

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Re: Testing Oven Ignitors
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2008, 08:44:45 PM »
yes, they are nice and I use mine quite often, but for measuring Ignitor current draw, it may fool you because some Ovens use a Cooling Fan for the Electronic Controller anytime the Oven is Turned ON.
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Offline JWWebster

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Re: Testing Oven Ignitors
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2008, 09:12:53 PM »
A good old amprobe will tell ya quick if the ignitor is bad and you won't even have to bend over and look at it. I use my cheater cord to split L1 and N at the power cord. Turn on the unit and observe the amprobe.
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

 

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