Whirlpool Wall Oven not responding to temp change

[Earl Dryer]

I have no error codes, but after self cleaning my oven does the bake preheat,
temperature shows 350 but when I try to raise the temperature the display goes down not up. Same in Broil. What's up?

Model Number: GBS307PDB1

[JWWebster]

The answer is: You should never run your stove on self clean. The temperature gets too hot for them delicate electronics.

[Earl Dryer]

 ;DNOW YOU TELL ME!! I know but you can't tell some hard headed people, so what do you think is it the board or is there any other possibilities

[JWWebster]

You might try removing the board and cleaning the connector. The excessive heat causes crap to run down into the connector pins.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Any Error Codes ?

It may be a bad Temperature Sensor.
If you could check it's resistance...

GBS307PDB1 Tech Sheets

[Earl Dryer]

This unit belongs to a neighbor, I asked if there were any codes before she tried
to reset it by turning the breakers off for 15 min. (as instructed by a Whirlpool Rep on the phone) they told her to get a repair person if that didn't work. She didn't know what to do with the PF. She called me, I went over and cleared the PF. Everything seemed OK until I tried to adjust temp setting it would adjust down. I opened the unit and checked all of the connectors (unpluged, inspected, & reconnected) all appeared to be clean and making good contact. The touch pad ribbon was not firm in its plug but insured good contact in the control board & snapped in the plastic housing. I did not remove the control board from the panel but it looked OK from face side, no signs of component over heating.

 Can a temperature sensor fail with out giving an error code?

[JWWebster]

What about the sensor, did you inspect the quick plug on it?

[Earl Dryer]

No, but I will if it could cause the problem, you been on target anytime I've asked for help.  Where is the quick plug?

[JWWebster]

It will be in the back. It will have 2 small white wires going to a white quick plug. Sometimes if you cut that plug slap out and hard wire the sensor it will work. Note: The new sensor does not come with a quick plug you have to splice it also so why not go ahead and bypass the quickplug and see if the sucker works?

[Earl Dryer]

Just kiddin about the quick plug, it was OK so was the sensor, people decided that they would buy a new oven and not a control board ( We have had it on order for goning on 3 weeks and Whirlpool says they wont have any for at least 2 1/2 more weeks. Not the 1st time I/ve been stiffed because of backorder parts.

FYI several of the techs were disscussing the self cleaning problem and they were saying that they found that boring a 1 1/2 - 2 inch hole in the rear corners
(top & bottom) of the cabinet and opening the doors and/or door a little when in self clean has help the cooling along the back of the oven resulting in fewer part failures. Sound to me like a good idea, the ventilation fan could use an additional source of cooler air to move around the box.

[Repair-man]

FYI several of the techs were disscussing the self cleaning problem and they were saying that they found that boring a 1 1/2 - 2 inch hole in the rear corners
(top & bottom) of the cabinet and opening the doors and/or door a little when in self clean

Let me know how that works out for you, Earl. For starters, the oven does not run in self-clean unless the door is locked.

Boring holes in a cavity designed for 1,000+^oF. will surely create an insurance liability  claim if nothing else. If you take that old oven those folks are throwing away and put a new control panel on it, you'll be good as new. I can appreciate the fact that you mentioned looking at it "from the side", but unless you have calibrated eyeballs, looking does not confirm anything. The panel was affected by the last self clean and needs to be replaced.

[Earl Dryer]

I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying about the boring. After removing the oven from the cabinet the holes are bored in the rear of the cabinet in the area that the oven doesn't cover. The 1000 deg. temp is in the oven and not impacted by the hole in the wood cabinet but the ventilation fan above the oven (in the top where the control stuff is) gets a cooler source on air to move around the exterior oven and over the controls. The fellers I was cussing this with say it has worked pretty well so far, as far as liability there is no alteration to the appliance other than replacing the failed components.

[JWWebster]

Earl, maybe you could submit your findings to the powers that be and get a gratuity, who knows?

[Repair-man]

Earl, ventilating the cabinet is a bona fide solution to keeping the oven cooler during the clean process. Several of our JennAir double ovens have had to be re-installed with space provided on the sides due to circulation issues. Most of these are desgned to pull in air from under the front of the oven and  roll it up the back and across the  control panel, then out from above the top oven cavity. My opinion is that the ovens should be designed differently or at least have special installation provisions to allow for better circulation. Try telling this to an engineer

Before 2000 many of these ovens had the discharge vent at the top of the control panel, which caused many a kitchen cabinet above it to warp and char if the oven was installed within 2" of a cabinet. They moved the vent to a lower spot above the doors and now we have other problems.

Whoever invented the self-clean concept knew in advance that this would precipitate more repairs to the oven. It's all a plot.

[JWWebster]

Maybe an oven control built into a remote device such as a PC. Perhaps a wi fi type thing with a long cable mounted away from the heat.