KENMORE WASHER NOT SPINNING

[y_ebbi]

the problem seems to be on the 2 spin cycles.  after the wash cycle, it starts to spin slowly to empty the water, just as the water empties it is supposed to spin faster to release the fabric softener.  this is the point when it stops spinning.  you can still hear the motor running but it doesn't spin.  i open and close the lid and it will begin the fast spin. as the lid closes, there is minor "bang" noise, proceeded by the spin cycle. it almost seems like doing this, it's locking into gear. now for the final spin cycle after the rinse mode...  it is pretty much the same thing, there is the slow spin cycle to empty the water which works fine but when it's supposed to kick into the fast spin, it stops and sits there (motor still runnning). once you open and close the lid the fast spin begins.  i've bypassed the lid switch and the timer has been replaced with no change. i was told it may be the clutch, the coupling, the drain solenoid, a hinge. i don't want to take the whole thing apart, waste money on a "guess", replace something, put it back together - just to find out that wasn't the problem. i already wasted $40 on a timer i didn't need. i'm really hoping you can pinpoint the problem with the information i've given you.  thank you in advance!

Model 110.24642300

[Repair-man]

If you changed the timer to no avail, then this proves that the Neutral drain mechanism in the transmission has failed or that you got a bad timer. Rather than try to repair a transmission, it is strongly suggested that you replace the transmission.

Whoever told you there was a "drain solenoid" is absolutely nuts.


The timer is supposed to make 2 pauses after the main wash, one to switch motor direction to drain, then another pause to alow the neutral drain mechanism to engage (clunk). If the timer does not perform the 2 pauses, the machine will never spin unless you open the lid and create the pause yourself. Are you sure the timer was replaced with a new one?  I never heard of a $40 timer before...you probably got skrude by whoever sold you a used part. Hope they are honest enough to refund your money so you can buy a proper new timer.

[JWWebster]

A coupling is less than 15 bucks and you have not looked to see if it was broken. The number one problem with this machine is people washing a big rug or comforter and break the drive coupling.

[Repair-man]

 

once you open and close the lid the fast spin begins.

Still think it's a coupling?  sheesh...

[JWWebster]

I seen that once and you know what it was? The lid hinge was loose.It would hit the sweet spot and every now and then it would not. Because the lid was loose and the strike was not hitting hole everytime.When I would lean on the lid fumbling with the timer knob I figured it out. Loose lid hinge.

[Repair-man]

Good idea, JW...I've seen that once or twice too. There's just one hitch...

i've bypassed the lid switch

Nope, ain't the lid switch (hinge either). Did you by any chance sell this dude a used timer?

[JWWebster]

40 bucks is a dang good price fer a timer

[JWWebster]

yebby this washer has a neutral pack in the tranny. That means the tranny allows that pump to pump the water out before the tub starts to spin. When you pick up the lid you stop the process and ruin the karma of this here machine. when you lower the lid it goes into spin with a tub full of water and a cussing you for all it can. You done made it work harder than it is sposed to. Over time this tranny can take a dive. It will be intermittant at first then get worse then quit. WHY because of a small plastic part.

[JWWebster]

Yebby the part I am speaking of is called a spin pawl:

[JWWebster]

Located beneath the main drive gear inside the tranny, it tends to get smashed down over time and will not engage on the spinout portion of the timed washing cycle. It is very easy to replace. You simply remove the tranny,remove the clutch off the tranny. remove the tranny cover. remove the main gear. and boom you will see the pawl. Lift it off and replace a new one without disturbing the rest of the innards.
 replace the main gear, replace the cover replace the clutch
 replace the tranny
put back the agitator. Put the whole dang thang back together and give er a try.
And while you is at it: look at dat old coupling fer defects. 

[y_ebbi]

Let me correct myself - the timer I bought was $47.34 from myappianceparts.com.  I'm assuming that it was a new timer.  I don't remember reading anything about it being used - could it still be the timer?  You guys are going back and forth with a couple different suggestions.  I just don't want to waste more time, money, and a lot of aggrivation taking this thing apart and it not solving the problem.  Is there any more information I can give you guys  to help agree on what it could definately be?  I'm more than capable of taking it apart to fix it, but I really only want to do it once.  Let me know... thanks!

[Repair-man]

$47.50 is not a realistic price to pay for a new timer. Sears lists it for $65, so does ReparClinic. Click the pic to see.  (myapplianceparts.com?)

No wonder you're confused. I keep asking JW not to throw all that crud in there every time I make a comment, but, no-o-o-...

I re-iterate, if you are getting success by raising the lid and engaging the Neutral drain manually when it closes, then the timer is not doing its J.O.B.

[y_ebbi]

That does make sense... I just washed a load now, and kept the lid open.  This time when I pulled the knob to start - the tub filled and there was like a 1 minute delay before it started agitating.  The rest of the cycle ran beautiful, spun all by itself every time.  Unfortunetly, I had a battle with myapplianceparts.com (idiots), they better let me return the POS timer I bought.  I will think twice about getting that "good deal".  Thanks for your help, I will go ahead and get a new timer from Sears - I'll let you know how it works out. 

[JWWebster]

I worked for an appliance parts outlet for many years. The policy has always been no returns on timers.

[Repair-man]

There are laws against selling used parts as new. There's also laws against selling defective parts.

If I were in y_ebbi s shoes, I would purchase the new timer from our reputable sources, then install it to prove the other one was indeed defective. This would be grounds for litigation if necessary.