I have a samsung rsg257aars
fridge bought 2-20-10 so outside of the bumper to bumbre warranty, but inside the "compressor system" warranty.
Couple of days ago the compressor stopped working at all. I took off rear panel to diagnose and the fuse (2 amp from factory) on the inverter board has blown. (but barely blown as in over current, not a direct short). This model of refridgerator has 2 cicruit boards, one which handles all of the sensors and it sends information to the inverter board as to what speed to run the compressor (off, high, medium, low). As found in a service manual for a fridge similar to mine, Windings of the motor are all at 9.1 ohms each, overload switch is working as expected and the main circuit board is "triggering" it to start properly.
$95 later the technican came out and said its a bad board, I asked him "why" (he did not even look at the fuse or anything, just checked the ohms on the motor windings) I then showed him when I replaced the fuse its a "slow blow" meaning the wire goes into a nice U on startup and then breaks after about 4 or 5 seconds. I am just not buying the "bad board" story. So i get a 5 amp normal size fuse and solder it to the little fuse with 3 inch jumper wires on the board and put my amp meter around it to see what is happening. On initial "cold" startup of the compressor (off for 15 minutes) it starts at 2.8 amps for about 10 seconds then drops to 1.4 amps (and the compressor audibly slows to a lower speed). When I force the refridgerator to run the compressor in "high" via the front keypad the compressor pulls 2.3 amps continiously. After runnning for 5 minutes I shot the circuit board with the IR tempature gun, nothing more than 102 degrees. Trying to figure out where the extra energy is going, its not in the circuitboard, It would be like having a 60 watt soldering iron in there.
Here is the problem. Tech said that there company would replace BOTH curcuit boards for an estimate of $450. If the fuse still keeps tripping its the compressor, which would be covered under warrantly. After talking with the tech some more (once he realized I knew what I was talking about) he said its probably just the inverter board, replace that and it will work. That part has a online cost of about $87. If the part does not fix it, something is wrong with the compressor.
What is the best way to go here? My hunch is the inveter board is working properly and something is worng with the freon levels so the compressor is not getting adequate internal lubrication, increasing the amp draw of the motor. How do I "proove" this without spending $550 on parts I probably dont need?