Forum > Refrigerator & Freezer Repair

R-134a refill help needed!

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AJ66:
I need to refill the r134a in my refrigerator/freezer. It's a Samsung RFG 297aars.
Will someone please look at the picture below and let me know which is the Low Line, and if I need to add a service valve, or are either of the existing valves the correct place to put the coolant in. THANK YOU!

The compressor label says;
Samsung BK190C-L2C E02, 240v, 3.6 IRA, RoHs Compliance, electronically protected system, R-134a.
The numbers above the barcode are 2676CCAS800942.
There's also a logo that looks like a backwards 3RJ, followed by US.

The details-
An authorized repair person recently diagnosed the warm freezer issue is due to a leak at the aluminum-copper solder joint in the freezer evaporator. He explained the evaporator is fine, but the weld can't be fixed "on-site" because of the copper/aluminum.
After reading several forums, I decided to patch the leak. I prepped the joint and used JB weld putty, as recommended by several forums. After the proper cure time I plugged the refrigerator in, the evaporator frosted up to the first few aluminum fins, which let me know the system was still pressurized (right?), so it hopefully had not pulled in any moisture through the leak. I unplugged the unit and did the soapy water test, no bubbles.
I have called several repair places and individuals, and I can't get anyone to come fill it, they all gave understandable reasons.
I plan to purchase the coolant/hose at Walmart. Purge the hose first, add a small amount of coolant, then watch the evaporator frost line, and repeat this over the next several hours until I'm just shy of a full frost - hopefully ensuring that I don't overfill the unit, which I've read is one of the biggest mistakes I could make.
 
I understand that it's risky trying to fill it myself, but I'm willing to take my chances considering the repair bill. Any tips or suggestions are welcome and appreciated!  :thanks:

tgoods:
Number one is the low side process tube.  Your plan sounds good.  Charge as a gas so you don't kill your compressor, which means keep the can upright.  Those cans at Walmart are made for cars, so you'll need an adapter to hook up to your access valve.

AJ66:
Tgoods - You're my hero! Looks like your dog thinks so too (from your photo).
I can't thank you enough! -Amy
:banana: :banana: :thankyou:  :banana: :banana:

MCAS:
I'm working on one of these right now. Same problem, leaky joint at the Al/Cu joint on the evaporator. I used epoxy putty with success. I have to tell you though: You need to have someone properly evacuate and recharge your system. Topping it off with refrigerant may seemed to have worked but your compressor is slowly being destroyed. You had a "low side" leak, which means air got sucked into the sealed system. Air is a non-condensible gas and contains moisture--both contaminate and kill a sealed system. The moisture mixes with the compressor oil and forms an acid--which slowly destroys the compressor windings and internals. Find a local tech that does sealed system work, tell him you need a system evacuation & recharge. Just tell him you are willing to accept the responsibility if the putty repair fails/leaks.

domain:
who did the sealed system work so far? Why cant they replace the evap in home? The new coil has copper inlet and outlets... ??? ???

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