Forum > Dryer Repair

LG Gas Dryer DLG2524W Error code 19:HO / U01: Unit spins, but no heat. Help?

(1/3) > >>

basnap:
Hi All,

Just got married and the wife is pissed already... Dryer stopped heating on any program overnight. The unit is a GAS powered 7 y/o LG DLG2524W. Nothing changed/moved. It spins, completes all programs but it simply does not heat.

There is enough ventilation, no lint in the filter, no clogging etc. Gas is connected and source pipe goes to water heater too which does work

Found the service manual here: DLG2524W Service Manual

It lists some self tests (press 'more/less time' icw 'power'). Then you hit START button a couple of times for different tests, but it never gets that far. Mine circles between 19:H0 and U01 and that's it. Nothing happens when I hit START to perform the other tests. Obviously this error code isNOT listed in the manual.

Found one post where it turned out to be a faulty flameswitch flame switch/sensor

Found another one where the main board was suspected (unconfirmed) Faulty board?

I've opened the unit & performed the following tests:

1) Measured thermostat (M220) and hi limit thermostat (M230) both showed 0 Ohm -> Should be OK
2) Based on 'Gas valve test'* I replaced the M230 but no change
3) Measure resistance of ignitor and flame sensor, both are 0 Ohm -> should be OK
4) Measured resistance of both GAS valve coils (disconnect terminals), both are in the 1150-1180 Ohm -> should be OK

Removed the front panel which holds the door while leaving DOOR switch connected. The drum is still in place and can rotate. And indeed, if I start the unit it will spin. The ignitor will glow deep orange for a few seconds before switching off again, it tries again in a couple of minutes but the gas never fires. I do not hear any clicks on the GAS valves.

This is someone's video where you see how the firing sequence works, but in his case the gas keeps flowing with ignitor off, which is very dangerous. Hard to judge by the video, but his ignitor seems whiter, whereas mine is a deep yellow/orange.




I measured the voltage in both AC and DC (the manual/forums are unclear on AC or DC) of the 2 terminals connecting to the GAS VALVES and I never get above 1 volt. Disconnecting mains will bring this to 0 completely.

Some questions I had.
1) What/who controls the voltage on these terminals?

2) At what stage to expect the voltage to be [ 40 - 90 Volts AC/DC ]?

a) With the unit plugged in but not powered up?
b) With the unit powered up but no program selected
c) When a program is running
d) When a program is running and the ignitor glows?
e) With a program running with actual wet clothes in the dryer such that the moisture sensor detects wetness?

I've measured the power going to VALVE 1 when running a program. Valve 2 is harder to get to but I suppose I could disconnect it. VALVE 1 does show slight voltage change when the ignitor lits up, but again, never reaches anywhere near the 40 - 90 volts I am guessing it needs?

Similar issues with slighty different variations:
Board Defect

Board replacement didn't resolve

Unstable hi limit thermostat

Burner sequence, suggesting 90V should be measurable at coils

Poster also looking for more detailed sequence of what should be measuring at what point

Getting only 20 V on the coils

Long chat, same symptoms, guy replaced board but still 50V

Sorry for this lenghty post. I hope someone can give me some hints. I am suspecting a bad board at this point ($100) but would like to test some more.

Thanks & I will post once resolved

tgoods:
Check the wiring between the valve solenoids and the control for continuity. If it checks good, replace the control board.

basnap:
Thanks!

I had done that actually just after the post. from the control board there is one plug with 3 wires, a white, a red and a purple wire.

VALVE1 gets the RED and PURPLE plugs
VALVE2 gets the RED, PURPLE and WHITE

All wires check fine between the COILS and control board.

So next stop... control board....

domain:
Agreed on pcb. We do not have many gas appliances around here, so I do my bestest.  O0

basnap:
I performed one more test. With most of the dryer back together and just the toppanel and the controls not mounted, I ran the dryer while having the plug disconnected facing the 2 GAS VALCES.

I put a volt meter and measured both AC and DC (again, manual says DC but some forums say AC). I do get like .4x Volte and see maybe a small increase when the ignitor glows (which I could see because the top was off).

Hence, the control board doesn't fire to open the valves...  but does that mean control board is bad?

Not in my view... it still could be that *some* sensor tells the control board not to fire because *some* condition is not met.

I did order the part though..

Checked here:

http://www.modelnumberlookup.com/

For my specs (LG, dryer, DLG2524W) and order it off repair clinic. It was a couple of $ more, but since their return policy is great I decided to go with them.

Will keep this thread going till this is resolved satisfactory

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version